Set Pieces: Theatrical set design sets the tone for a new season at Dover Street Market

A charred old grand piano and larger than life casino table are two new installations at designer retail emporium Dover Street Market, where set design concepts have superseded retail corners for the store’s seasonal Tachiagari (change over).







A window collaboration between designer Adam Kimmel and artist George Condo grabs attention at the entrance to the store with Condo’s sinister and oversized male puppet characters standing around a casino table whilst showcasing Kimmel’s autumn/winter collection.










And on the third floor the newly refurbished shoe and bag accessories space has been designed by Studio Andy Hillman and features a charred grand piano displaying accessories by Loewe and Sergio Rossi, Fendi, Delvaux, Roberta di Camerino, Judith Leiber among walls covered in dark vintage wooden display cabinets. The effect is dark and moody reflecting the retail design trend for a Rough Luxe (see LS:N Global) atmosphere.

These eye-catching installations point to a new era of set design in retail.

My other highlights for AW10 at DSM include:
- The opening of a new Yves Saint Laurent space designed especially for DSM
- Alber Elbaz's latest VM creation for Lanvin - very lady is the vamp and theatrical
- Phoebe Philo's supremely luxe and minimal accessores space for her Celine accessories
- Hussein Chalayan's perfectly symmetrical hanging wardrobe - I loved his AW10 'Vegas' / on the road collection
- Nicholas Kirkwood's delectable shoe/rock/carving showcase
- Print fusions from Peter Pilotto or Erdem. Love the sophisticated print dress this season.
- Basement full of sneakers for men and women who like an androgynous look. I wish Visvim came in smaller sizes.

Swedish fashion house: Acne creates London studio store

Swedish fashion label Acne has opened a studio store in a former gallery on London’s Dover Street, and it's curated more like a tall townhouse with departments and artworks on each of the four floors.



The four floors not only display men’s and women’s fashion, but also art works by Helmut Lang, Jeremiah Goodman and Katerina Jebb. When entering, customers pass a piano that will be used for live music at weekends. A roof terrace adds to the feeling of being in someone’s home.



‘The studio will offer more than just clothing, it will be a house of different creativity,’ says creative director Jonny Johansson.








I particularly like the interpretations of Jeremiah's artworks - with wallpaper designs on the walls of the store very much leaping off the page of his book to mingle with the carefully merchandised collections hanging artfully on rails and mannequins.