Bish-Shops

Hermès on tour: J'aime mon Carré pops up in East London

2010-11-18T06:08:00.000-08:00

French luxury brand Hermès is taking its microsite campaign J’aime mon Carré on a pop-up tour of London.

The website was launched earlier this year and invites youthful Hermès customers to post images and videos of themselves wearing their Hermès scarves in Paris, Tokyo, London and New York.

This is where luxury brands and street style converge to provide modern and relevant social media campaigns that change consumers' perceptions of brands. Burberry's Art of the Trench did it first now it's the turn of Hermès.

‘It’s a new way for Hermès to talk to a younger customer,’ Pauline Vilbert, head of UK communications told me. ‘We’ve chosen an out-of-the-way area like Arnold Circus in Shoreditch. The pop-up store will then move to Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill for another two-week stint. We wanted to take the J’aime mon Carré website and give it a little tour for our London customers.’

The East London launch event, held in the Rochelle School of Arts, Arnold Circus was hosted by indie band Warpaint who did a set while London's fashionista's experimented with gifted Hermès scarves! What's not to like!

Selected Femme: label to watch

2010-10-08T06:17:00.000-07:00

Catching a march on other European vertical retailers is Bestseller the Danish fashion company with 12 brands under its umbrella and the best known of the brands Vero Moda and Jack&Jones, coming to London’s Oxford Street soon.

Selected Femme and Selected Homme are the contemporary tailoring collections from Bestseller and after seeing the brand showcase its new collections at Copenhagen fashion week way back in January, I’m happy to see the desirable winter collection hitting key London stockist House of Fraser this month. For autumn/winter the focus is on smart outerwear, mixed with feminine tailored pieces and contrasting fabrics such as soft leathers and suedes, silk chiffons, tweeds and plenty of fluffy knits.

Selected Femme's womenswear designer Christina Steen told me this season's collection is inspired by independent and strong personalities. "Embracing the look of a cosmopolitan woman with a clear identity and courage to create a personal style within the modern look, the Selected Femme expression is feminine, cool and chic" she says.

This autumn there's a rich colour palette from earthy brown, muted moss, desert rose, light lavender, dirty gold and dirty violet. Outer wear and tailoring are this labels signatures while knits are another strong statement especially when they are combined with a cosy graphic cardigan.

Ice crystals are expressed with edgy elegance in this sophisticated take on serenity. Watch for the shimmer of sequins, which change colours in a 3d effect. Bigger sequins become an optical illusion on a dress, while other sequins are like crystal formations seen in black on black. Meanwhile, there’s a snowy glistening feel on a terrific knit tunic born to be worn day or night.

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This label fills that gap on the high street for high-end design at high street prices with the added benefit of having a cool Scandi design heritage and the best bit is it's still a bit of a secret.

In the UK, Selected is opening more doors and developing a bigger offer at House of Fraser stores. Maybe a Selected flagship is on the cards – hope so!

Selfridges opens world’s largest shoe department

2010-09-17T15:30:00.000-07:00

There are shoe departments and then there are The Shoe Galleries at Selfridges, which take customers on a retail journey of six ‘galleries’, 11 shoe boutiques and 4,000 pairs of shoes on display over a whole floor.

It's a shoe wonderland and beats the recent 'biggest shoe department' record over at Saks in New York hands down.

The Shoe Galleries was designed by architect Jamie Fobert to be a place of exploration within Selfridges, recently voted the world’s best department store. Actually it's like there are layers of shoe rooms to discover and explore from high-street to designer to what I would call uber-designer.

‘Imagine you are in a gallery,’ says Selfridges’ director of accessories Sebastian Manes. ‘From the entrance you see a succession of doorways and at the end a huge window flooding the space with daylight. Your journey begins at the front, with shoes from the best of the high street. Slowly you begin to travel through different galleries until you reach the end – the couture designer gallery, flanked by Chanel and Louboutin, and a vision of Eden – the new suspended garden at Selfridges.’

I hunted out some serious Alexander Wang heels, some great grey Givenchy booties, those Balenciaga op-art pumps and the must-have Celine courts for this autumn. I hear Selfridges has negotiated plenty of exclusives with designers for the various rooms. Meanwhile there are shop-in-shops for the likes of Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin and Repetto that are designed to reflect the homes of each of the designers.

What I also heard on the industry grapevine was that because D&G didn't get one of the designer boutique 'rooms' flanking the main designer floor they had a bit of a disagreement with management and pulled out of selling to Selfridges completely. That's £1m revenue in shoes alone! Hissy fit or what!!!

Timberland's style on the move

2010-09-13T07:07:00.000-07:00

I wish I could translate the recent Timberland Cycle and Style event into a live retail experience.
A few style journos and fashion bloggers gathered in Regents Park last week to cycle along the canal towpath towards our end destination, the very rurban Waterhouse restaurant – all so we could enjoy an outdoor experience and see the new spring Timberland footwear collection. Oh and we were gifted with a pair of Timberland’s leather deck-shoes so we could look the part.

I love the London arm of the Regents Park canal – running from Uxbridge in the west all the way through to Bow in the east – my other half has a narrow boat so this is my stomping (or rather cruising) ground! The sun came out after a morning of rain (thank God!) and so we set off on our bikes to get into the spirit of the secret tranquil life of London’s urban canalside. It was a joy and very uplifting for the soul.

Then we arrived just in time for lunch at the gorgeous, canalside Waterhouse restaurant in Dalston, that’s committed to efficient waste management and follows a strict policy of reducing waste and recycling with a minimal carbon footprint. The restaurant was chosen for its sustainability policies that mirror Timberland’s.

One of my favourite pieces in the collection was the water resistant canvas desert boot – using P2i technology to create a more durable, water resistant canvas outer and part of the Under Canvas range. As one of the Timberland designers showed me, the water just rolls off! And it looks great too.

Both the mainline outdoor range and the more premium, formal & vintage feel collections looked great for next summer.
Maybe Timberland should do a pop-up store by the canal next summer where you can hire bikes and test out the range of shoes – much like the lucky set of journos did in our Timberland Cycle and Style trip – how to make this kind of experience translate into retail is a bubbling under trend I’m looking into for LS:N Global right now. They’re calling it Coviviality Culture and centres around ‘live’ events. Live + Retail = experience driven shopping. It’s good for the soul.

Set Pieces: Theatrical set design sets the tone for a new season at Dover Street Market

2010-07-20T03:24:00.000-07:00

A charred old grand piano and larger than life casino table are two new installations at designer retail emporium Dover Street Market, where set design concepts have superseded retail corners for the store’s seasonal Tachiagari (change over).

A window collaboration between designer Adam Kimmel and artist George Condo grabs attention at the entrance to the store with Condo’s sinister and oversized male puppet characters standing around a casino table whilst showcasing Kimmel’s autumn/winter collection.

And on the third floor the newly refurbished shoe and bag accessories space has been designed by Studio Andy Hillman and features a charred grand piano displaying accessories by Loewe and Sergio Rossi, Fendi, Delvaux, Roberta di Camerino, Judith Leiber among walls covered in dark vintage wooden display cabinets. The effect is dark and moody reflecting the retail design trend for a Rough Luxe (see LS:N Global) atmosphere.

These eye-catching installations point to a new era of set design in retail.

My other highlights for AW10 at DSM include:
- The opening of a new Yves Saint Laurent space designed especially for DSM
- Alber Elbaz's latest VM creation for Lanvin - very lady is the vamp and theatrical
- Phoebe Philo's supremely luxe and minimal accessores space for her Celine accessories
- Hussein Chalayan's perfectly symmetrical hanging wardrobe - I loved his AW10 'Vegas' / on the road collection
- Nicholas Kirkwood's delectable shoe/rock/carving showcase
- Print fusions from Peter Pilotto or Erdem. Love the sophisticated print dress this season.
- Basement full of sneakers for men and women who like an androgynous look. I wish Visvim came in smaller sizes.

Swedish fashion house: Acne creates London studio store

2010-07-14T06:21:00.000-07:00

Swedish fashion label Acne has opened a studio store in a former gallery on London’s Dover Street, and it's curated more like a tall townhouse with departments and artworks on each of the four floors.

The four floors not only display men’s and women’s fashion, but also art works by Helmut Lang, Jeremiah Goodman and Katerina Jebb. When entering, customers pass a piano that will be used for live music at weekends. A roof terrace adds to the feeling of being in someone’s home.

‘The studio will offer more than just clothing, it will be a house of different creativity,’ says creative director Jonny Johansson.

I particularly like the interpretations of Jeremiah's artworks - with wallpaper designs on the walls of the store very much leaping off the page of his book to mingle with the carefully merchandised collections hanging artfully on rails and mannequins.

Popping swaps: Liberty of London hosts a trio of design collaborations through pop-up swap shops

2010-03-04T02:29:00.001-08:00

Liberty of London has extended its design collaboration roster to include working with a trio of international retail names this spring – through shared swap-shop pop-ups in-store.

First to kick off and launching during fashion week on Feb 23, the London based retail brand has linked with Milan boutique 10 Corso Como for a mutually beneficial print collaboration realised across a limited edition capsule collection for spring/summer. Under the chic Milanese owner, Carla Sozzani’s direction, artist Kris Ruhs has reworked the iconic Liberty Ianthe print into a contemporary design that adorns shirts, swimsuits, hats, leather accessories, scarves ties or handkerchiefs. The pop-up area in-store is merchandised similarly to the Corso Como flagship and the product will sell in both locations for the rest of the summer.

Meanwhile Liberty has also joined forces with philanthropic Paris lifestyle store Merci for a joint swap-shop – over consecutive weeks and with installations in both capitals happening from early March (4 March in Paris and 9 March in London). The Liberty-Merci pop-ups will sell an exclusive range of limited edition pieces, designed and created by Merci creative director Marie France Cohen. After immersing herself in the Liberty print archives she chose a selection of heritage designs that sum up the essence of Liberty for both the French and UK markets. Think summery floral sundresses for women, cute smock tops and flowery bloomers for childrenswear. Soft furnishings are a Merci strongpoint so there are cushions, specially commissioned sofas and haberdashery items too.

Last but not least is the grand daddy of retail design collaborations, Target. Liberty of London hopes to make inroads into the lucrative US market by partnering with the giant US value retailer – and following a value-nomics led strategy. The limited edition Liberty for Target collection is the US retailer's biggest distribution to date with availability at 1500+ stores. It spans fashion and homewares, picnic items and even garden equipment. The prints are bold and undeniably floral and the mass market priced collection will be on sale at Target stores in the US as well as Liberty in London from April.

This spring’s celebration of flower power is about embracing the democratic notion of design for all. Ed Burstell, Liberty’s buying director says: “The price points for our Target collaboration truly spread the Liberty look to all. Now designers and retailers around the world are recognising that by taking our iconic prints and applying them in a considered way to a garment or an object, they can create future classics, whether it’s a plastic beaker at Target, a standout suitcase at Merci or an exquisite scarf at 10 Corso Como.”

All three collaborations are well thought out brand synergies that benefit both parties. Through the swap-shop pop–up executions in each country, Liberty finds itself working with like-minded fashion and lifestyle brands and reaching a global audience on a localised level.

adidas Star Wars: may the force be with you in Berlin

2010-02-08T05:35:00.000-08:00

After seeing the adidas Originals Star Wars collaboration for SS10 back in November at the press day and wishing I was more of a sneaker freak (OMG, the boyfriend was beyond excited and couldn't wait to make a purchase), I was even more excited at the prospect of the Vice Magazine/adidas Originals for Star Wars party in Berlin while Bread & Butter was on.

After a bit of a scrabble at the door of the underground bunker we were in (despite the sub-zero temperatures and snow), surrounded by serious Star Wars fans judging by the costumes in attendance. But this was Berlin and being Germans it was an edgy crowd all the same. Synth rock and vodka cocktails.

Oh and plenty of stormtroopers at the bar. And obviously a few sneakers on display (where are those elusive orange Luke Skywalkers? And the Princess Leahs?) So despite the photo embargoes in place I felt the need to share a few images online (think I'm safe now). Loving the Star Wars corridor of fame. Now that's a way to celebrate a collaboration.

I think London needed this kind of launch event. Anything would have been good. There was talk of a flash mob of Stormtroopers hitting Shibuya in Tokyo and over in New York, Racked just reported on how Snoop Dog kicked things off at the Soho NYC store (The Best Stunt Ever!). So come on London, I'm looking for Leah.

Acne's Black Sno

2010-02-03T16:13:00.000-08:00

Last night Swedish denim brand Acne held its Autumn/Winter 2010 runway show in London with an atmospheric and dark, moody set by Charles Koroly.

With the collection inspired by his sons' love of the Star Wars film Clone Wars Acne founder and creative director Jonny Johansson said it's not such a literal inspiration. "More the colour palate, the feeling and the shapes which inspired me. It is also a collection that continues from last season and an exploration of spirituality and astronomy from the show’s makeup direction to the long, floaty and easy silhouette."

And Acne looks to be following the new mood in fashion for a post-apocalyptic world. This season's collection called Svart Snö (Black Snow) is an exercise in low tech vs high tech, luxe and destroyed, dessert winter meeting black Snow. Fabrics are characterized by draped silks, textural ultra suede, burnt wool, luxurious sheep skin, mesh and kid leathers. The look is enhanced by eerily futuristic metallic make-up and one-off pieces by jeweller Husam El Odeh. It's a mix of new longer proportions, asymmetric layering and protectionist clothing for a brave new world.

The Svart Snö collection was shown in the disused London tramshed with the idea to set the scene for an emotive and unique scent in collaboration with BYREDO, the Stockholm based fragrance house.

Johansson said: “I like to portray rooms, trying to capture a room through scent is super interesting and I always love to remember a relationship with a physical space through the way it smells. We imagined filling a train garage with perfume would be quite a challenge so we created this fragrance for one night only and we hope that you remember this space and this night with our Svart Snö room fragrance.”

Acne is on the money here with the way scent marketing creates an emotional connection with an experience. In this case a unique scent was created for one night only to provide a memory of a fashion show and the creative direction for Acne’s seasonal collection.

Dover Street Market Tachiagari SS10: shoe fetish

2010-01-19T14:35:00.000-08:00

With the new spring/summer 10 Tachiagari, Dover Street Market has unveiled a host of new branded spaces with what I'm calling "precision merchandising" as key for the latest designer spaces to join Rei Kawakubu’s Comme des Garcons marketplace.

Actually my favourites this season are the new Celine corner - the first retail space from new creative director Phoebe Philo in all its elegant refined chrome understated glory; next up is the refreshed Comme des Garcons Shirt ulilitarian complex; the 'Scarecrow meet n greet' at Lanvin and the Hussein Chalayan display - an exercise in precision hanging. Nicholas Kirkwood's graphite installation kicks a punch too while down in the basement the Visvim area has pedestals for each Tokyo tech pair of men's sneakers.

But really its shoes that are in the spotlight across the store (and the window), for the new season. A new women’s footwear corner has opened on the third floor housing high end names such as Guiseppe Zanotti, Christian Louboutin, Chrissie Morris, Rupert Sanderson and Pierre Hardy. Take a seat on the park benches and admire the set design interior designed by Michael Howells. His window theme is “All About Eve Meets Paddington Green” – as an ode to park life and amateur dramatics?

And downstairs in the basement its sneaker freak heaven with the industrial looking box design corner housing a host of men’s footwear labels including Volter, DMs, Common Projects, Yuketan, Generic Man and the new Puma by Hussein Chalayan product.

Elsewhere there are designer finds in every corner from Charles Anastase cute attic style dolls, Ann Valerie Hash's adult and new girlswear collections, a new YSL Edition stand, Azzedine Alaia's impeccable workmanship, the Undercover walk-in cave, and new collaborative product featuring the Beatles apple logo for Comme bags.

See my Picasa album for the rest of my pictures this season:

Dover Street Market Tachiagari SS10

Harvey Nicks targets young fashionistas with new 4th floor

2010-01-17T10:49:00.000-08:00

Harvey Nichols is targeting a new younger and discerning fashionista with its 4th floor contemporary designer floor due to open next week.

And I'm pretty excited because it seems Harvey Nichols buyers have taken all the best new talent from New York, London, Milan, Paris etc and put together a seasonal edit that has all the hallmarks of the best boutiques from around the world. And we're talking fresh eyes mixing up new contemporary designers that are igniting their home fashion towns - so now we don't have to travel all over the world to get the best array of new talent in one shop!

The HN team say they're moving away from the conventional and putting collections such as Versus, Opening Ceremony, Love by Richard Chai, Halston and Cacharel alongside British designers such as Richard Nicoll, Peter Pilotto and Meadham Kirchoff. Also included are hot US labels Zero by Maria Cornejo, Elise Overland and Brian Reyes. Described as a fashion "lifestyle" - the ultimate destination for anything and everything fashion related.

My favourite new stuff include a Lanvin 'Supermarket of Luxury' complete with limited edition dolls, snow globes, notebooks, music boxes and a honeymoon kit. Or there's a girls-only sneaker wall displaying the likes of Keds for Opening Ceremony, Christian Louboutin trainers, Jackson Pollock splattered Converse for WGACA and Beatrix Ong for Nike. Or wear and eat jewellery by Coco Maya and cart it all around in Erdem for Globetrotter luggage.

If Harvey Nicks has highlighted a new fashionista customer that likes her hot-off-the-press fashion from around the world and at recession friendly prices, then this new department will be full to brimming when it opens on Monday 25th January.

Kookai's joie de vivre returns to London fashionistas

2009-11-19T14:27:00.000-08:00

Everyone's favourite French high street label, Kookai has returned to favour with London fashionists. A new flagship store on St Christopher's Place is a long overdue retail home that looks set to ensure Kookai retakes its place in the crowded high street marketplace.

Actually Kookai's return has been brewing for a few seasons now. The French label had scaled back its London retail presence, working only with its biggest store partners. Now with a new design team at the helm the label has majored on its strongest legacy: knitwear. And leather pieces. And natural fabrics. It's a mix that works with a chic twist.

At the press launch for the new store, press saw what was in store for spring/summer 2010 - all Breton stripe sweaters, easy silky prints, lightweight leather or suede pieces and a whole range of different gauge knits, from long line cardigans to cropped open knit weaves for a real fashion offer.

Here's a selection of my favourite pieces for spring, hitting the new St Christopher's Place store end of January.

Guess says "Wonder, Passion, Freedom" for retrospective celebration

2009-10-30T06:25:00.000-07:00

Iconic US denim brand Guess decided to celebrate 28 years of sexy photography with a party in London last night. Oh and the new flagship store on London's Regent Street.

With steamy black and white photos of ripped jeans, rippling torsos and plenty of cleavage all over the walls, not to mention Claudia Schiffer and the brand's other heavyweight supermodel faces through the past couple of decades featuring in the two week long exhibition at Il Bottacio, Knightsbridge - this was a party for a party's sake.

For those party-goers unfamiliar with the current Guess collection there were a few mannequins dotted around - skin-tight denim and gothic-meets-bling touches would be my take on the brand's DNA right now.

Actually the black and white photography stills from past ad campaigns was certainly a visual retro fest for those interested in denim iconography. My how Guess has changed its tune in the last 28 years!

A couple of days later I was passing the new flagship and perused the gothic-meets-bling-meets-rock-chick windows and noted the VM is an accomplished affair. (But EXACTLY the same as the plethora of US stores). Also, I have to say the store would have been a much better venue for the exhibition - after waiting so long for the right location I can't help but wonder why the celebratory event was held elsewhere? And while they were about it, the party should have had a Hallowe'en theme guys - it's all about the costume at Hallowe'en after all!

Anthropologie is retail magic

2009-10-24T10:10:00.000-07:00

At last! Anthropologie has finally opened on London's Regent Street. As a seasoned US Anthro customer I was beyond excited at the prospect having a good look around at the press preview on Wednesday - and they added a sumptuous tea party spread to boot!

So the real secret of Anthropologie's success Stateside is the clever VM and eclectic product display that mixes fashion, homewares and lifestyle with a certain je ne sais quoi that sews it all together. It's retail magic that makes you want to buy everything! Each store has two dedicated VM experts that change around new product all the time and are responsible for the story telling aesthetic Anthropologie is known for. From wardrobe to bedroom to kitchen table to pantry and even to garden (with sister retail brand Terrain) it's all there to be discovered.

When I asked visual manager Camdon Richardson what was his secret he told me the devil is in the detail: "It's all down to the little touches I put in the nooks and crannies to catch people's attention. Some of our shoppers are used to Anthropologie displays (and love us for it) but others are captivated when we add the little related product ideas and special props we find from our travels around the world. It's about inspiring people to follow our style in their home so I like to show them how to do it for themselves." He added that the London store has been his favourite so far because the UK - and Europe provides such a rich cultural melting pot of ideas. "It's a huge first step for us here in Europe."

James Bidwell is MD of the Urban Outfitters owned new Anthro UK. He told me: "We're all about experience and we exist to provide our customers with a journey of discovery in-store. The secret of the store is the merchandising. Average dwell time per customer is an hour and a half and it's because there's so much to discover. It's like layering different product stories for the customer." He added that the creative visual team take a completely different approach to each store - they're based in each one and take inspiration locally. So London means Union Jack wall hangings, quilts and throws - with one even styled on a mannequin as a skirt to throw the different departments together.

Other quirky highlights in-store include the giant lifesize Narwhal hanging above the laden tabletop display (made from all the plastic packaging from the products shipped in for opening, and covered in paper mache), the Magpie chandeliers made by South African artist communities, the Christmas room complete with snowy clouds (check out Anthro's wonderful ornaments selection) and last but certainly not least is the 2000 sq ft growing plant wall complete with over 80,000 plants, created by UK based company Biotech. "It's like a green oasis on Regent Street". If you look closely the plants are arranged in a plaid check formation and are supported by their very own sustainable irrigation system from the roof. The wall together with the three storey staircase (made from reclaimed wooden frames), stitches the building together. Oh and I nearly forgot the stunning circular hanging window display made from hundreds of dip-dyed used tea-bags. Very British!

I also had a quick chat with head of buying Olivia Richardson who said she wanted to bring over what was relevant from the US and translate it for the UK market. "We had our London customer firmly in mind and wanted to source the local market to make the Anthropologie offer right for Europe. So we're doing a number of collaborations with both the interiors and fashion offers including a capsule range with Eley Kishimoto and several items from the boutique Beyond the Valley. We have also worked with French artist Nathalie Lete to create some one off home pieces and British interior designer duo Clarke and Reilly have created a line of hand crafted furniture exclusively for us."

She added: "Our customer encounters everything from textiles to home accessories, as well as decorative antiques and vintage objects that are literally found by our buyers who travel the world in search of originality that's right for Anthropologie."

Wow 'buyer at large' sounds like my dream job!

As usual I didn't hold back snapping away inside, here's my selection of pics for your visual delight!

Anthropologie Regent Street

Monsoon's boudoir lingerie

2009-10-15T03:42:00.000-07:00

Monsoon's new lingerie line is pure boudoir dressing.

Launching today, the new collection makes its debut at larger branches of Monsoon stores all over the world with a special corner boutique full of rose petals, dressing room furniture and scented candles to get you in the the bedroom mood!

Cute pastels and florals mix with silky satins for mesh bra-tops and knickers, camis and lace-edged slips. I snaffled one of the blue satin lace-edged bras and cami-knickers matching sets at the press launch in the Kings Road flagship store and was pretty impressed with the bargainista high-street prices. And the thing I love so much about Monsoon is that it does such good homewares products too - so alongside the new lingerie, find really feminine cushions, knick-knacks, picture frames, candles and other bits and bobs to prettify any bedroom corner.

It's so pretty and so Monsoon, and now we're so ready for some boudoir time!

Smithy's new shoes

2009-10-13T06:11:00.000-07:00

Paul Smith has opened a new accessories store where it's all about the shoes. Happy dayz!

Everyone's fave eccentric British designer has chosen the quiet, chic enclaves of Marylebone High Street for his new boutique that's small but perfectly formed into two sections for men and women.

I snapped a few pics from inside the store launch last night but go check out the shoes, socks, scarves, wallets, handbags and er... teapots!

Les filles do Madamoiselle Chic in Paris

2009-10-07T05:57:00.000-07:00

Tranoi Femme SS10 October 2-5 2009, Paris

The girls are back and it's Paris chic all the way at French trade show Tranoi where brands such as Heimstone, Les Prairies de Paris, Madame a Paris, Eurythmic, Mont St Michel and newcomer Roseanne are setting the scene for that gamine street look that mixes bohemian rock chic with effortless Parisian nonchalance.

Always a favourite of mine these are the brands that rock in Paris - it amazes me why they are not more widely available outside of France - they are all completely retailer friendly with wardrobe-ready collections just waiting to be edited down. They are a boutique owner's dream ticket; travel to Paris or St Tropez and see these Madamoiselle Chic labels in action.

Elsewhere at Tranoi previous season’s country showcases have been absorbed into the main show – Scandinavian brands including Bllack Noir, Rodebger, Dagmar all showed in the Bourse location while Japanese brands Vas Blomme, Il by Saori Komatsu and Hiromi Tsuyoshi showed at the new Carrousel de Louvre venue. And Indian designer Namrata Jamipura symbolizes the exquisite workmanship that the country is known for through its sequin eveningwear.

For out and out commercial appeal New York designer Binetti and Australian design duo Sass & Bide were our top picks returning again to the show, while first timer Bolangaro Trevor is a British label on fire right now - with sales through the roof at the show to prove it.

Trends

Surf inspiration is a big story for spring/summer 10. From neon sporty hoodies or tank vests to vibrant beach scene prints. Graphic prints are everywhere – swirling tropical leaves, painterly brushtrokes, pixilated florals – to inspire high-octane culture clash combinations.

Colours are suitably summery: pastels are on the runways and in the booths therefore they are the season’s strongest trend - along with neons and clashing brights. Metallics make a perennial appearance with all over burnished gold washes looking like a key update.

Fabrics are textured with crochets, lace, broderie anglaise and mesh knits or lightweight tweeds giving unexpected tactile appeal to seasonal favourites.

Here's a selection of my spring/summer brand picks:

Binetti – New York based designer Diego Binetti likes the Ibiza lifestyle and it shows in his glamorous, resort inspired clothes. This season the designer has focused on a gladiatorial statement of armour-style beading on metallic jerseywear pieces, digital tropical prints and tribal designs. The diffusion line ‘I love Binetti’ is now 75% of the business and this season has a light safari on the beach mood with fun prints and belted cotton shorts, tops, dresses and jumpsuits.

Bllack Noir – This ethically minded Danish fashion brand has a play on textures as key inspirations this season. Zippered leather hooded gilets sit next to satin bombers and feminine silk dresses nipped and tucked under the bust for understated sexy styling.

Bolangaro Trevor – Kate Bolangaro and Stuart Trevor are the British designer duo behind the vintage inspired collection that has quickly become a hit contemporary designer label in London. Vintage flag designs, military tailoring and preppy schoolwear jersey pieces mix with figure hugging draped or feminine dresses for a modern take on vintage “thrifting”.

Dagmar - Arty, chic knitwear items and 40s boudoir styling are key for the new collection dedicated to the Bombasse – a mysterious woman who looks sophisticated but dresses in refined lingerie parts. There’s a new casual mix from denim pieces mixed with graphic prints while voluminous drapes and close fit dresses are further highlights.

Giorgio Brato – The Italian leather brand has worked with new washing techniques on pastel leather jackets and leopard print effect bombers. The younger casual line, Wild Lab Generation features printed jersey track pants and sweat tops or nylon bombers.

Heimstone - Oversized shrug-on jackets have 70s feel with paneled leather and suede designs while the Paris brand’s lightweight dresses and tunics are perfect for underneath. Zip body-con dresses continue to be best sellers and tribal prints round out the chic Parisian collection that has a global fan base.

Hiromi Tsuyoshi - Knitwear is the main focus of the collection, with key pieces created from 14 different yarns and produced by hand. The label’s signature style is fused together fabrications with open-weave knits, multicoloured 14 yarn sweater dresses and preppy jersey striped blazers or double layer bright cardigans important items.

Il by Saori Komatsu – The desert was this season’s inspiration for Japanese designer Komatsu who loves to fuse fabrics together to produce unlikely double combinations. We love the broderie anglais look knit and chiffon weave effect dresses also worn as tunics.

Kaylee Tankus- draping and folding are key for this wardrobe building Italian collection that has officewear and smart utilitarian design at its core.

Les Prairies de Paris - Tuxedo style tailoring is lightweight for summer and brightly coloured suede or self-striped cheesecloth fabrics are product highlights for grown up smart/casual looks for day and evening. Easy footwear completes the look.

MSGN – This season the Italian label has taken influence from the blogosphere and a retrospective meets futuristic take on fashion trends for the season. Think 80s Chanel braided jackets in tweeds, lacey frill dresses and brightly coloured brushstroke strapless prom dresses. Oh and neon too.

Namrata Joshipura – Exquisite Indian craftsmanship for eveningwear with a modern, contemporary feel.

No 44 – The Japanese brand that has vintage military as its style influence takes on a wardrobe building manifesto for spring with knitted tops and knitwear added to the urban workwear offer.

Osklen – Brazilain sportswear label Osklen is having its day with the big surf trend set for spring/summer. We love the jersey broderie anglais effect printed tees, hooded sweats and layered pointelle lacey tunics. Metallics are another highlight for glamorous sporty daywear options.

Rodebger – The Swedish label was showing for the first time and with a dark brooding collection strong on textures such as punched leather or soft corduroy and silky paisley print dresses. With a new 10-piece limited edition range of eveningwear and studded wedge footwear the Scandinavian newcomer was a hit.

Roseanna – Lingerie as outerwear is the design ethos at this French label that is full of whimsy and feminine charm.

Sass & Bide – the Australian design duo are a firm favourite and now show their urban chic collection on the runway in New York. This season’s key looks were gladiator body-con meets 80s raver for voluminous jersey casualwear. The brand’s Black Rats leggings have been instrumental in starting the ‘treggings’ trend and the ruched lurex animal print styles are commercial winners.

Accessories were also strong with key footwear and bag brands such as:

Benhaz Kanani – Couture level craftsmanship puts Kanini’s shoes in another league. This season more sandals and lighterweight summer options feature snakeskin, eel and ostrich leather cuts.

Elsa – Danish footwear and accessories designer Elsa has used washed out tans, creams and pale blue or yellow for her utility inspired collection with hints of neon and transparent paneling that work for both the men’s and women’s collections. Her mix and match uppers and soles for shoes are a hit with retailers.

Jas MB – covered studs across leather holdalls and mini-camera bags as clutches are new for the British designer that sells his bags from the US to Asia.

Peachoo & Krejburg – this Danish designer duo has a new focus on gothic styled jewellery mixed with chains for belts and harness-strap leather footwear.

Stephen Venezia – the Italian shoe designer mixes avant-garde designs with high-end luxury leather techniques and colourful combinations for directional footwear.

Suecomma Bonnie – this Korean brand has been running since 2003 and has 12 stores in its home territory with a growing European interest from retailers. Styles are quite glam with high sexy heels with a focus on embellishment and intricate detailing from studs to crystals to frills and ribbon tie bows. Italian manufacture.

To see all my photos click here:

TranoiFemme SS10

3rd Central is first base for Selfridges denim this autumn

2009-09-25T07:10:00.000-07:00

3rd Central has just opened at Selfridges and I couldn't wait to pop into the brand new third floor denim and contemporary labels mecca considering myself firmly the fashionista target market.

I was not disappointed and spent a very enjoyable hour and a half having a good look around the whole floor. From all the hottest denim labels (complete with denimology sizing scanner machine) to shop in shops for some of the best contemporary fashion labels in the market today.

My interests were piqued by the likes of Marc by Marc Jacobs, Anglomania, Juicy Couture, McQ, Helmut Lang and Alexander Wang to name just a few. All sorts of great mid-market labels like Theory, Maje, Zadig & Voltaire and Whistles are adjacent to the yellow and beech wood decorated department and the feel is buzzy, contemporary and above all urban.

Anita Barr (a long standing buying associate of mine) has really nailed it with her first big project after being named womenswear buying director last year. There's just a really great mix of the biggest (read most commercial), hottest and directional yet contemporary collections gathered together on one floor. And the spookily tall mannequins aren't even that intimidating if you squint!

It's no wonder that while helping my stay-at-home-mum friend who also happens to be super-tall and super-slender, get her seasonal fashion update we managed not only to spend most of the day in Selfridges but dropped the best part of a grand in there too.

Kane fashion week madness at Topshop

2009-09-18T04:28:00.000-07:00

Everyone has gone Christopher Kane mad this week as Topshop has kicked off fashion week with a rush on THE designer collaboration to be seen in!

So while the guerilla t-shirt is the only thing to wear at the shows (the Topshop PR told me they have plenty of supplies!), the LFW New Gen heavyweight sponsor has dedicated its whole window to the new Kane collab, which (apart from the ape tee) is full of studs and rivets and dance-tastic Lycra pieces.

And a quick look inside Topshop's Oxford Circus mecca reveals a great looking VM display dedicated to the in-house team's high end Unique collection - also showing on the schedule this week.

I can't wait for this season's offer, as last season's rave-culture layer-it-on space odyssey chimes so well with all the retro-futuristic 90s club gems that are cropping up on the streets of London. Check out this VM display and then check out the actual catwalk exits for cross-fertilised styling tips from the Topshop team!

Pull & Bear does club cave retail on Oxford Street!

2009-09-08T03:17:00.000-07:00

At last Pull & Bear has opened in central London with a new club-cave like store on Oxford Street. The Inditex owned brand (yes another one) is firmly aimed at the youth market (but in a different way to Bershka) and the new rock-chick and rock-guy flagship is a world dedicated to club and college kids that want their gig-going fashion on the cheap and cheerful side.

With plenty of sparkly, shiny, studded and graphic merchandise around this is a lesson in environment and lifestyle retail. I feel old just walking around - but it's all good for the teens who clearly love it as stock turnaround is fast. This is part of the Zara family afterall - blink and you'll miss those sparkly leggings, pleather jacket or studded biker boots. All for under £100!

Here's a few pics from the opening night party!

Dover Street Market: Tachiagari AW comes early

2009-07-22T04:21:00.000-07:00

Autumn/Winter collections seem to arrive earlier and earlier each season and while most designer emporiums let the new deliveries slip quietly into store Dover Street Market has a completely new look each season called Tachiagari - and it's a refreshing way to introduce customers to the new designer offers with exciting corners, VM displays and personality enhancing spaces.

The press preview on Monday did not disappoint, so feast your eyes on my whirlwind tour of the new spaces (floor by floor - and then back again for a few bits I missed!).

First off, loved the colourful floral window display. Complete with heady scent, Andy Hillman has created a mystical garden illusion, entitled Endless Summer, which invites guests into what feels like a greenery tunnel. Andy Hillman is a set designer who regularly works with photographer Tim Walker (former DSM collaborator) forming whimsical and magical worlds.

And more of my personal favourites include the new Comme des Garcons Shirt for women corner (rose pink & frilly whites), the suspended hanging space for Hussein Chalayan, the 'front row of fashion' Lanvin show experience, Anne Valerie Hash's reading corner space, Charles Anastase's 'my own private museum' collection of drawings alongside his grown up chic outfits, the World corner complete with eccentric masks and vintage collectibles, Loewe's sumptuous leather bags, Ferragamo's vintage table laden with 70s era shoes and the hidden away, decadent new shoe "department" (love the axes on the carpet wall) carrying hot labels such as New Gen award winner Michael Lewis, Sergio Rossi, Bruno Frisoni, Mr Hare, Cleo B and T29. Nicholas Kirkwood's new geometric frame display is also nearby, next to the new YSL Edition 24 corner full of timeless classics - and don't miss the expanded Comme des Garcons Homme Deux tailoring desk.

The new Comme des Garçons pop-up brand Black made it's debut here a couple of weeks ago (now on the ground floor for 18 months) along with brand new shop fits for Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons Shirt (for men) with those active looking mannequins and Comme des Garçons mainline - the collection entitled, Wonderland draws its inspiration from creating illusions such as layering of materials and prints on accessories. Check out those chic military surrealist parkas.

Tao's little rail of frills is so cute and so is the Undercover space opposite - it's like a treasure trove at the top of the forbidden tower.

In fact there's a bit of a shoe thing going on too (great news for shoe lovers such as myself) for men and women.

Downstairs the basement has had a bit of a refurb too with a whole new sneaker space - carrying hotties like Volta, F-Troupe, Generic Surplus, Common Projects and new spaces for Engineered Garments, Original Fake, Visvim, Monocle, Supreme and the new own-label from Dover Street Market. Sadly it's the last collection for Number (N)ine down here too.

And finally, loving the new collector's book space from Idea Books - this week celebrating man's first steps on the moon.

Captions and more photos here:

DSM Tachiagari AW 09

Heritage pursuits key trends at Tranoï Homme where traditional summer activities combine with washed out colours and light fabrics.

2009-07-01T15:36:00.000-07:00

Tranoï Homme spring/summer 2010, Paris, 26-29 June 2009

Paris menswear trade-show, Tranoï Homme hosted an international roster of men’s apparel and accessories brands last month, where designer sector formal, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections following heritage pursuits – providing an early indication of what is set to be a big trend for the season ahead.

Traditional summer and hot weather activities such as British tennis or croquet, classic California surfing and African/Asia safaris feature as themes for clothes that men can return to again and again for classic summer climate styles. Washed out fabrics – especially suede, silk or jerseys mixed with over-dyed light colours from sand, dove grey and pale blues through to navy or charcoal.

This season Tranoï organizer Michael Hadida continued to collaborate with a selection of designers who showed their collections to press and buyers via runway shows at Tranoï’s Bourse location. Dries van Noten pulled a big crowd among the thunderstorms, while Damir Doma’s giant installation decorated the exterior of the venue.

Commercial trends & key pieces

Preppy and sporting pursuits jackets looked to be strong – in keeping with the theme of heritage summer activities. Ticking stripes or checks kept jackets formal while safari pockets and light shower-proof coatings provided humidity cover-ups for jungle activities.

Washed out leathers, suede, silks and paper coating were popular fabrications for blouson jackets or longer length parkas or sleeveless gilets.

Jersey linings on soft handle cottons were extra soft to the touch, shirts had a gauzy washed feel with pajama style shorts or double layer shorts over leggings and rolled up trousers lengths as key pant options. Patterned machine knits or open-weave gauzy hand knits provided a contrast to all the jersey.

Natural leather, treated suede or plasticized inserts are highlights for accessories with washed out brights for canvas sneakers.

Brands to watch

Top picks from buyers at the show included Riviera Club, Nigel Cabourn and Social Suicide. Luisa de Paula, creative director at My Wardrobe said: “I loved the washed out, relaxed feel of US surfwear brand Riviera Club, it’s got a vintage heritage feel that’s right for now.”

Apparel:

0205 – This jackets and pants only label from Italy features the same cut (short SB2 jacket, single pleat slim trousers) in a range of checks and stripes. Keeping preppy style simple.

Arne & Carlos – The Danish knitwear duo start with a set of graphic shapes (horses and swallows this season) for their machine knits and them mix up the shapes to produce a range of coordinated and Scandinavian design feel knits. Masculine and modern.

Coal Black – Japanese denim brand Coal Black is half rock n roll and half outdoors/Cherokee Indian. A great mix of biker leathers, sharp indigo denim and 50s tuxedo style suiting.

Giorgio Brato – this Italian leather specialist makes sensual soft skin leather or suede jackets, shirts and pants – all have a washed out, worn in quality. Also on show was the brand’s younger, more contemporary range Wild Lab Generation with special attention paid to repeat print graphics on jersey and nylon sweat tops.

Golden Bunny – watch out for this Italian jacket brand’s summer weight triple washed, triple coated silk blousons – so soft they scrunch up and fall out in a handshake.

Kenzo – a mini preview of the men’s catwalk collection by Antonio Marras was on show at Tranoi Homme – desert safari storm was the look that saw creative director Marras take inspiration from the central African expedition of Pierre de Brazza in 1880 to discover the Congo river.

Nigel Cabourn – British designer Nigel Cabourn took a trip to Burma for his jungle summer collection full of khaki jackets and waterproof outerwear with vintage detailing that sets Cabourn apart from other 90s labels that have since died a death in the casualwear arena.

Philipp Plein – the German designer’s design aesthetic is rock meets couture – this season manifesting itself in skulls and rhinestones. For summer the new polo shirts, and flouro details mix clean tailored lines with rock inspired studs and leathers.

Riviera Club – this Santa Barbara based vintage surfwear brand was a standout collection at the show. Split into three delivery stories, Riviera, Vintage and Safari the nautical, washed out and desert styling came through loud and clear. Highlights were the jersey lined, soft-handle cotton shirting and pajama like shorts, over-the-head cover-ups and bleached-out worn jersey tees.

Social Suicide - British summertime pursuits is this formalwear label’s inspiration, where linen and cotton jackets roll up to unravel a world of passing-the-time vacation options. Flamboyant deck chair stripes and sophisticated piping are key features on soft fitted jackets with big lapels and frayed edges. Printed gingham and polka-dot linings conceal chess and backgammon boards, sudoko, crosswords, tick-tack-toe among a battalion of pockets to hold the holiday novel, wallet, sunglasses and even mesh casing to ensure limited mobile phone reception. These are jackets to prolong the holiday experience - in town, country or ex-pat location.

Venti Cappotti Venti Cappelli – the Italian outerwear specialist has focused on paper-weight coated and over-printed wind-cheaters and parkas for its summer collection. Currency graphics look strong for Oriental influences.

Yohan Serfati – an eccentric French designer, Yohan Serfati specializes in manipulating leathers and transforming them into aesthetic design focused pieces. Jackets and open-weave knits are cut with curve detailing on sleeves, hoods and shoulders while double layer shorts or leggings are new pant options.

Accessories:

A Coba LT – this Japanese accessories brand makes mountaineering pursuits look fresh for summer with lightweight suede options for boots and sandals alongside hiking bags in exotic skins and canvas.

Converse – showcasing the more exclusive Jack Purcell and John Varvatos collections, sportswear giant Converse unveiled tennis and retro sneakers for the Purcell line and more vintage inspired weave designs for the Varvatos collaboration.

Elsa – Antwerp-based accessories designer Els Proost again joined the group showing of the Flanders Fashion Institute at Tranoi Homme and showcased her cut-out raw and over-painted leather shoes and messenger bags. The double layer shoes in pale tan colours mixed with pale blue and flouro looked fresh while her clever inside/outside design detailing brought man bags bang up to date.

Guiliano Fujiwara – the Japanese designer brand based in Italy has a new sportswear direction for Summer 10. Concentrating on the footwear offer, the suede high-top sneakers mix commercial and sportswear appeal with a casual finesse.

Martinica – the Italian belt brand fuses handcraft and design with commercial vintage styling appeal.

See all my photos here:

Tranoi Homme SS10 Paris June 09

Authenticity key at Capsule Paris, brands focus on heritage design values

2009-06-30T08:19:00.000-07:00

Capsule spring/summer 2010, Paris
26-28 June 2009

Progressive streetwear trade-show Capsule, hosted its third Paris edition last month, with a discerning offer of mostly menswear and accessories brands. Contemporary, designerwear, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections that majored on authenticity and heritage design values. Many brands told the story of their making with localized, vintage inspirations.

It's one of the best, not to mention earliest indications of the forthcoming season's trends - and boasts an impressive list of international retailers scouting brands that will make a difference. Even US trends website PSFK said it wished it could have attended. (Despite the fact that Capsule travels to NY and Vegas in the next month for repeat shows - I guess they just couldn't wait.) Well I couldn't wait to post my report either! I've highlighted trends and a few of my favourite brands, plus posted my usual album of photos - see end of report for link.

Captions top to bottom: Haversack, Creative Recreation, Camo, April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Organiser Edina Sultanik-Silver said she thought the mix of labels from Europe, Japan and the US was Capsule’s strongest to date and after only three seasons the show has quickly become a must visit for independent boutiques and department stores. She added there has been an influx of Japanese, Asia and US buyers this season paying particular attention to the British contingent due to the weakened pound. “The show is pitched as both progressive and saleable and we feel the market level is coming together with an interesting mix of heritage and new brands, balancing edgy with mainstream.”

Commercial trends & key pieces

Summer outdoor pursuits, classic nautical and authentic workwear pieces appeared as commercial themes. Light summer knits and jersey outerwear were surprising bestsellers among exhibitors. Highlights such as fine gauge cable fisherman knits, matelot stripes, short workwear or equestrian blazers, worn-out look shirting or long-sleeve placket front tops, whimsical floral prints and pleat-front tailored shorts all injected some newness into the men’s streetwear and contemporary arena for spring/summer 10.

Brands to watch

Top picks from visitors at the show included Cole Rood & Haan, Haversack, SNS Herning, Norsea Industries and Our Legacy. US fashion journalist & stylist Cator Sparks said: “I love the original story-telling aesthetic behind brands such as Our Legacy, Gitman Vintage, Cole Rood & Haan or SNS Herning. Fashion brands have to show their authenticity nowadays.”

Online retailer, My Wardrobe creative director Luisa de Paula added that British brands such as Garbstore, JW Anderson, Peter Jensen, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, B-Store and Lyle & Scott were her key show picks.

Apparel:

5th Avenue Shoe Repair – this Swedish contemporary brand has become a hot export from Stockholm Fashion Week, and with womenswear as popular as its menswear offer the label is attracting an increasingly high-end stockist base. Key pieces for spring/summer 10 are drop crotch trousers, asymmetric seams and shorter blazer style jackets. Inside out lining and pocket details ensure parka style coats look fresh while washed out linen shirting and bleached denim add a summer vibe. A whimsical paisley print for shirts and tailored shorts injects some pattern interest.

April 77 – French denim and music brand April 77 is growing in collection size as well as global stockist list. Now separated into premium and core lines the three main themes for SS10 were rock n roll music, 80s denim or Apache Indian. Watch out for the myriad stone-wash denim options (on treggings too), camouflage or lumberjack print patterns and Apache Indian meets mid-Western desert styling touches.

Camo – Italian designer Stefano Ughetti looked to equestrian inspirations for his sportswear inspired collection with Arabian style dressing a clear direction. He learned how to ride horses especially for the designing process (in order to understand the functionality needs of riders) and named each piece after specific breeds. Dropped-crotch trousers and shorts alongside striped front-placket shirting and jersey polo shirts are key and a perennial bestseller for Camo. While the bold colour palette of solid colours for unlined cotton jackets with leather pockets and trimmed fine gauge knit cardigans, simple SB2 soft-structured blazers and simple front pocket tees are all key.

Haversack – Japanese label Haversack is one to watch for its love affair with British and establishment dressing aesthetic. Military and nautical themes appeared on tailored linen and light wool jackets or more casual jersey based safari-esque pieces. Plenty of pockets on outerwear pieces and layering of paisley shirting, chequered knits and gingham jersey jackets had an eccentric appeal. Put it all together and this Japanese collection looks well travelled.

Norsea Industries - The rugged appeal of the ocean was also central to Lancashire based label Norsea Industries with designer Stephen X’s new collection called “The Romance of Nature”. No nonsense brushed cotton twill jackets, chinos, cotton striped knits and whimsical fish or floral illustrated designs adorned jersey tees and plain tabard button down tops. Classic designs from days gone by made modern again for discerning menswear fans who like to keep it simple.

Our Legacy – Jockum Hallin from Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy says that the label’s design ethos was developed with the Swedish outdoors way of life in mind. Everything is kept simple and easy to wear with hunting & fishing style jackets, corduroy giets, soft-handle washed linen shirts, jersey or loosely tailored shorts and light knits all key. Hallin says the idea behind the collection is that the wearer passes on favourite or cherished pieces to future generations.

SNS Herning - The authentic fisherman cable knits in light merino wool and sea-island cotton from Danish brand SNS Herning were one of the highest quality brand offers we’ve ever seen. This young brand is still finding its feet (with a healthy kick start from Dover Street Market in London) makes second-skin knitwear with a heritage dating back to the 1930s.

Accessories:

Creative Recreation – the West Coast sneaker brand that features zip away high-top construction has extended its range to include summer-wear hiking boots and a range of canvas and leather brogue style shoes with asymmetric lacing details and soft rubber soles. The core range of high-tops has been updated for summer with over-painted and white-washed canvas, suede or leather options, texturised weave materials and dip-dyed designs.

Cole Rood & Haan – a new heritage offer from US luxury accessories giant Cole Haan sees handmade tanning and last-making for shoes come into spotlight as the brand embraces the story of its beginning. With press notes stating: “In 1928 Cole, Rood & Haan Co was introduced in Chicago, the epicenter of the Jazz movement. Through his flair for design, Trafton Cole created the company’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship while Eddie Haan elevated the brand to one known for service and style.” 80 years later their spirit is back and parent company Cole Haan can enjoy its history once more. Autumn/winter 09 was the brand’s first outing at retail so spring/summer 10 will follow its limited distribution. Light tan, vegetable dyed leathers, contrast panels of canvas and pale lacing feature in the small collection that has a washed out and lovingly created quality feel.

F-Troupe – British footwear brand F-Troupe offered new madras and ticking stripe designs for its simple desert boot styles. Lightweight primary coloured suede boots carried the label’s signature hiking style lacing and the new white sole design carried across for boat shoes and lace up brogues.

Springcourt – the French sports shoe legend has embraced pattern and print for summer, with madras checks, pixilated graphics and Aztec designs as highlights. Grey marl canvas was a basic contrast to the metallic coloured leathers that had a more rock vibe especially the stars n stripes with gold and silver metallic options for statement footwear.

For captions and more photos:

Capsule SS10 Paris June 09

Oasis talks to fashionistas for AW09

2009-05-01T05:19:00.000-07:00

Oasis previewed all its hottest looks for autumn/winter 09 last week and I can reveal the top trends to watch in-store will be: Rapture for the 80s vibe (full on sequin dresses and stretch lace mixed with studs); Modernist for a wearable take on the geometric, construction styles that are coming through loud and clear (pointy shoulders and angular lines I'm talking about you); Warrior for something a bit more street mixed with glam - liquid satins and fur layering; and Modern Vintage for a slightly softer mood with investment pieces to save up for.

Meanwhile I just loved the signposting throughout the presentation - talking fashion at you and not in a condescending way - let's hope these type of insightful messages make it into stores for clear communication. And this works well for signaling the Oasis sub-brands: new for autumn we have Shirt Tales - a fashion focused range of dresses and blouses made from shirts only. Also new is Drawn To You - a range of illustrations across jersey tees and dresses. 80s New Vintage continues to reinterpret the decade that lives on in fashion (check that bronze tuxedo jacket and some stunning LBD numbers). And not forgetting the Oasis Designer Collective, now in it's second season and working with graduates from The Royal College of Art.

So plenty to choose from and more of the trend messages in-store please!

New Look's it girl bash

2009-04-30T04:21:00.000-07:00

New Look's celebratory bash last night was a fashionista fest and filled to the brim with London's young it girls. I just loved Amber Le Bon's nonchalent chic look here. And is she sporting hot new Prism frames - just in-store at Browns? My friend Anna Laub's glasses certainly do find themselves on the finest chiselled features!

Peacock feathers flying at H&M

2009-04-23T01:48:00.000-07:00

The latest designer collaboration has hit at H&M and Matthew Williamson's new spring range was flying off the racks on Regent Street last night at the VIP / Vogue exclusive preview shopping evening, where Williamson's signature peacock feathers and bright colours were keeping early bird fashionistas happy.

With a queue stretching right around the block it was elbows sharpened to snaffle the hit items - the peacock print jersey dress and long flowing chiffon maxi dress were both early winners while the khaki crop biker jacket and fucshia or turquoise knit cardigans were also fastest off the racks.

Bestie mate Sienna Miller was floating around upstairs while Pixie Geldof was perusing the rails in earnest to try to find something mixing Williamson's hippie deluxe with her rock chick style!

This collection is one of H&M's biggest orders with "plenty to go around" according to PR people and with deliveries today to 1600 stores worldwide everyone should be able to get their hands on a peacock feather or two.

This week's designer collections activity goes to show the high street is still in love with the now common seasonal injection of a bit of celebrity hype and judging by the queues, consumers are still willing to pay for it. I'm wondering if Zandra Rhodes can pull it off for M&S later on this summer too?

Hulanicki highs at Topshop

2009-04-21T15:40:00.000-07:00

60s icon Barbara Hulanicki is the latest designer collaboration collection at Topshop and judging by tonight's launch event, this summer's playful pantsuits, chiffon print scarves and blouses will fly off the racks. Hitting stores on the 28th April, London's fashion hipsters had a week's headstart on the rest of the country with an exclusive private shopping event in Notting Hill's Millers Academy (antiques-laden literary private club).

This type of private shopping event has to be a winner in today's tired seen-it-all-before retail climate. The treasure trove ambiance of the venue and wardrobes full to bursting of the new collection probably helped matters - as did the cocktails and Delicious catering to fuel decision making.

Hulanicki was holding court among her Biba-era friends such as Jo Wood, Jan de Villeneuve and Cilla Black. She told me she'd had lots of fun working with the Topshop team on bringing her colourful sunny clothes to life again. And her favourite outfit is the grey suede crop jacket with matching high waisted shorts: "I can't wait to see how everything sells!" she said.

Chanel's new age bling: talisman jewellery

2009-04-17T17:21:00.000-07:00

After seeing Chanel's ready-to-wear jewellery collection today at the London HQ press day, I'm a new convert to the creative genius the fashion world knows as Karl Lagerfeld.

The range of art-deco inspired talisman like necklaces, rings and bracelets in delicate jade green and rose pink enamel have an instant collectable quality that will surely leave fashionistas helpless and wanting for more. The models from the show all ran off with the giant sphere rings and when compared to the colourful yet recession-friendly jersey quilted range of classic bags this season, well I know which I'd choose.

Is it finally true to say that "it jewellery" has taken over from "it bag" as luxury item of choice for today's recession conscious fashionista? Well for this one it is anyway...

Free money!

2009-04-17T03:00:00.000-07:00

Diesel has decreed that today is Black Friday and to help with our economic woes the denim giant is spraying London with free money!

Whether you find it hidden in an old wallet that Diesel is leaving lying around the capital's major transport hubs (shades of Margiela?) or just scattered on the pavements, this (illegal) tender is the finder's lucky ticket to up to 100% off merchandise at Diesel stores all over the weekend.

Is Renzo playing Charlie and the Chocolae Factory or is it just a case of money for old rope? Whatever the case this injection of "cash" into the economy is a welcome one!

Mademoiselle chic at Tranoï Femme where biker girl meets quirky sophisticate for key autumn trends

2009-03-10T01:45:00.000-07:00

Tranoï Femme autumn/winter 2009/10, Paris

Tranoï Femme is where to find all those chic French labels alongside a range of contemporary designer European finds that organizer Michael Hadida scours the fashion cities of the world hunting out.

Held at the same time as Paris Fashion Week and taking place in three separate venues it’s the leading Paris womenswear trade show alongside other salons such as Rendez-vous, Atmosphere and Premiere Classe.

This season Hadida was trying out a new location – the Carrousel de Louvre (the same venue as many of the catwalk shows) - and it was certainly hard to beat for footfall appeal right next door to all the action of the runways.

“We wanted to try something new this season with the location, it’s a key venue for buyers and we wanted to make it even easier for them to visit the salon and see this season’s pick of European designer labels we’ve found to showcase.”

Trends

80s looks and sculptured tailoring were strong trends coming through while zippered detail on dresses and biker style jackets were big order book favourites. A full range of chunky, cable, ruffle and cardigan knits were popular while slinky satins and graphic animal or plaid prints were also moving.

Colours and fabrics were muted and tactile with nude camels, creams and beiges mingling with grey, navy or black. Pops of berry or purple shades kept things lively with hints of burnt orange and metallic along the way.

Brands to watch

Tranoï is a great place to find those French, mostly Sentier based brands that have that insouciant, gamine and oh so chic Parisian look about them. The likes of Heimstone, Love Milla, Madame a Paris, Les Prairies de Paris and Le Mont St Michel alongside newcomer Roseanna were our top picks.

Heimstone’s 80s boyfriend jackets, zip body-con dresses, Aztec print details and snake or suede jackets hit the spot.

Love Milla’s silken blouses, dresses, kaftans and pretty tops have Cruise season cover-ups, or silky feminine options all sewn up.

Madame a Paris went for a real 80s vibe with a fun mix of polka dots, plaid, brocade, lace and tuxedo crop tailoring styles for the chic mademoiselles of Paris.

Les Prairies de Paris has a slightly more grown up appeal – serious outerwear such as suede shrug-on coats or harness fastening capes – alongside charming well-cut wool tailored dresses, silky blouses and sporty blousons.

Accessories were also strong with key footwear brands such as Tattoosh, L’Autre Chose and couturier Behnaz Kanani as well as futuristic biker girl style from Raphael Young all standing out. Post & Co had a way with VM for their belted balloons and hat brand CA4LA was first out of the blocks at the entrance with eye catching fuzzy headgear.

In with the new, out with the old

2009-03-06T10:10:00.000-08:00

Watching the revolving doors at Paris houses is one of my favourite sports so it was with some pleasure I witnessed an encouraging new dawn at the Rochas label yesterday.

Quiet luxe was the mantra for a newly invigorated Rochas, now in the hands of ex-Halston and Versace designer Marco Zanini, who did not disappoint with a well pitched commercial collection that had exquisite detailing and French sophistication as its focal points.

Zanini told a handful of key editors and top buyers that this collection was not about extravagance. "I didn't need to look in the house archive, I just knew what I wanted to do. I knew that the collection needed to be an understated modern interpretation of luxe - these pieces don't scream luxury they're very quiet with details in the fit and only for the wearer to know about." The devil really is in the detail with delicate chiffon inserts as under-arm seams or ribbon labels sewn into the tiny pockets.

It was chic elegance all the way for classic French slips, silk blouses or double-face wool coats. Tailoring had a 40s feel while intricately beaded evening dresses rounded off a wardrobe that was a complete departure from when Olivier Theyskins was designing for the house before owners P&G closed it in 2006.

With the most expensive pieces coming in at 2800 euros for shaved calfskin throw on coat or a jewel encrusted beaded LBD for 1800, this is a collection fit for a fashion industry in recession - and judging by the turnout of all the major department store fashion directors filing in to take a peek, Zanini's job looks safe for at least the first couple of seasons.

And can I just say: what an exemplary way to showcase a debut collection. The new Rochas benefitted from low, backlit lighting and revolving mirrors to cast a quiet glow over Zanini's work. Were they all thinking what I was thinking? Has someone got it just right at last - just perfectly pitched clothes that women will instantly want to wear. I hope he stays...

Thank you for having me

2009-03-06T04:16:00.000-08:00

I love how retail just finds me sometimes. Last night wandering back to my hotel after a day of shows and showrooms in Paris, I stumbled across the launch party for exciting new lifestyle store Merci. And after writing about it for a piece on Philanthropic Retail for the LS:Nglobal trends website just last week I knew it was going to be good. But in reality it blew me away.

This vast cavernous home of lifestyle retailing is a lesson in exemplary merchandising techniques, curated by the founders of childrenswear brand Bonpoint, it caters to all your lifestyle whims - with a "thank-you" tone to the contributors who have taken part. From designers such as Stella McCartney, YSL, Paul Smith or Isabel Marant, Prairies de Paris and Barbara Bui to a well curated vintage offer, beautiful childrenswear section and "brocante" style furniture display units, this is truly a visionary store. The furniture alone is over a whole floor with layed out "living areas" - a mix of contemporary classics and vintage pieces, from Eindoven graduates to established craftsmen and well known designers. For example, 1950s school desks, designed by Arne Jacobsen and sourced in Finland, sit alongside an exquisite armchair designed by Paola Navone.

Throughout the three floors covering 1500 sq m, exclusive and ‘one-off’ products are juxtaposed with more mainstream lines, while in the main courtyard visitors can find both a florist and a cafe, and next door is the Used Book Cafe and library - where customers can buy second hand books donated by leading writers, literary critics and celebrities.

This carefully curated collection of interiors, childrenswear, haberdashery and fashion, florist and even a literary cafe is also an exercise in giving something back to society; the owners intend to donate all the profits from the store to charity. Merci to everyone involved is the mantra throughout the store.

And with a packed out opening launch night when the catering was in plentiful supply (just like the chic Parisians in attendance) this old wallpaper factory should be a new regular must-visit on the Paris retail scene.

Obviously I took lots of photos so take a look at one of the best new lifestyle stores around here:

Merci lifestyle store

Katie Grand's LOVE In at Dover Street Market

2009-02-17T14:28:00.000-08:00

Katie Grand launched her new mag LOVE with a temporary bedroom corner space at London's Dover Street Market on Valentine's Day and just in time for London Fashion Week.

The collaborative fest of hip designers and their latest products made especially for Valentine's Day to celebrate Grand's new LOVE Magazine (apparently it was nearly called Sex, according to her Ponystep interview today), is cosy affair down in the basement with the walls covered in a scrapbook collage of pages from the new glossy c/o friend and fellow collaborator Katie Hillier.

For the Love In, Grand chose a few of her favourite designers: Stella McCartney created limited edition underwear for each day of the week, customised handbags and belts by Chloe, delicate Prada underwear, sharp graphic heart tees by Luella, Burberry house check silk underwear sets featuring LOVE on the behind, smooth Loewe nappa leather cushions featuring ‘I Loewe you’ embossed in gold, happy shiny hair accessories by Katie Hillier, House of Holland Tees featuring Henry Holland’s take on Beth Ditto especially for Valentine’s Day, Giles for Swarovski duvet and pillow case sets, boxed sets of China mugs featuring exclusive graphics by Pam Hogg, 100% silk Gazard dresses by Victoria Beckham, Gap Tees featuring the cover of LOVE’s first issue, and irresistible silk satin embellished shirts and dresses by Dolce & Gabanna.

After DSM sold out of its 30 preview copies over the weekend, LOVE hits stands tomorrow. In the meantime here's the scrapbook version.

Popping up for fashion week NY-LON

2009-02-17T12:10:00.000-08:00

It's fashion week season again so that means some great pop-up retail action in New York and London.

Target launched its about-to-drop Alexander McQueen McQ for Go International collection over the weekend with a frenzied McQ Market preview. Fashionistas in the Hudson Square temporary space grabbed what they could before the rest of the US could get their hands on it. If only Target could come to London...

And in another big retail partnership on 23 February Uniqlo will open a dedicated menswear shop at London's Selfridges on Oxford Street. The new area is housed within the contemporary menswear collections and will showcase an edited range of Uniqlo's top end menswear offer including the new tailoring range alongside the Japanese retailer's cashmere sweaters and colourful hoodies. A brand new Japanese Denim range will also launch in the space - collaboration with Japanese denim manufacturer Kaihara.

London based footwear desginer Tracey Neulsis celebrating 10 years of quirky shoes with a pop-up shop and exhibition called Tracey Neuls Past Present Future in Exhibition Road right next to the tents for fashion week. Open for three weeks only we are promised shoes from past present and future set in Neuls' signature design rich surroundings of shoes displayed on vertiginous towers made from hundreds of reclaimed vintage drawer units.

Mother of Pearl at Start is more of a "guerilla" store than a pop-up according to boutique owner Brix Smith who says the sports-luxe collection is taking over the Shoreditch shop (well mostly) for three weeks. Conceived by Maia Hirst, Mother of Pearl features modern dresses in luxury and technical fabrics that easily transcend from day to eveningwear. Hirst has even installed a motorcross bike to emphasize the sportswear inspired, luxe lifestyle pieces.

Nike 1948 is going from being a pop-up (launched last August in time for the Olympics) in Shoreditch to a permanent space to showcase the sportswear giant's sportswear and fashion collections. Opening (again) on 18 February.

And like other magazine-inspired pop ups that I posted about last Dec, let's not forget Katie Grand's Love in at Dover Street Market - a collaborative fest of hip designers and their latest products for Valentine's Day to celebrate Grand's new LOVE Magazine - in-store for fashion week / as long as stock lasts / whenever Katie wants her bed back - whichever is sooner.

Liberty's spring 09 relaunch: a retail renaissance

2009-02-15T15:37:00.000-08:00

I had a good nose around London's favourite and oldest department store yesterday after Liberty unveiled its new look on Valentine's Day.

The revamp features an innovative and more curated layout with a series of themed rooms to showcase different collections, as part of the luxury department store’s “Retail Renaissance” strategy.

The changes to the store structure will be in sympathy with the period quality of the building. The famous wood panelling taken from two former Royal Navy ships remains, of course, but the designers are ensuring that plentiful light is drawn from the glass above the central atrium and uncluttered store design. The store colour palette will be a cool bone and all the fixtures shades of metallic anthracite. The emphasis of the new Liberty will be on the best edited and focused fashion, accessories and homewares collections from around the world.

At the forefront of the changes in-store is creative consultant Yasmin Sewel. The ex-Browns buyer has spearheaded the store’s transformation, focusing on women’s and men’s fashion and accessories, and a layout re-think.

Kicking off she has dedicated a large part of the ground floor accessories area to a new Bazaar gifting department. “We’re introducing a fast-paced Bazaar on the ground floor,” explains Sewell. “It’s a reminder of the store’s origins, when buyers would scour the world to bring back unusual, rare and precious items. Customers will find a wide and eclectic range of items, many of which will be limited edition and always changing.” This room takes its visual inspiration from a traditional bazaar; tables with intricate wooden mosaic inlay display the must-have items for that week. These range from Baptiste Viry grosgrain ribbon buckle cuffs to Nymphenburg porcelain heart shaped key rings, Carlos Falchi patchwork hobo bags, Muhlbauer nautical flat caps and 20s inspired turbans to quilted Indian picnic blankets and guides to every city in the world.

Just next door the jewellery room has changed to become a dedicated scarf showcase - with the most extensive offer in London where established brands like Fendi, Givenchy, Pucci, Liberty of London and Dries Van Noten will sit alongside exclusive lines from Josh Goot, David Szeto and Wolf & Descourtis. We love the head turning array of turban styled mannequin displays and zebra prints on the walls.

On the next two floors covering contemporary and international women's designer collections you can see Sewell's hand having the most effect.

On the first floor in the International Room, Sewell’s focus has been on brand mix. Sophisticated collections from established brands hang next to a younger generation of designers. Christopher Kane sits next to Balmain, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein sit with Josh Goot and Ohne Titel and Antonio Berardi with Alexander McQueen. Sewell says it's this clarity of offer that women are looking for when they shop as well as an element of discovery. "They want to mix ‘killer pieces’ by established and burgeoning designers." Edited collections from all the designers in this room are arranged so that standout, show-stopping pieces are merchandised with a comprehensive selection of items to wear them with. The seated army of mannequins display Sewell's must have seasonal pieces - basking in the central atrium light from above.

Moving through to the central atrium is the Avant Garde room. A black matte floor provides the perfect backdrop to Liberty anchor brands such as Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, Acne and Dries Van Noten who will have their own distinct corners - more immersion into designer spaces like this please!

The Essentials and Contemporary rooms on the second floor have anthracite rails running through them and octagonal mirrored fitting rooms forming
free-standing pods that flood light into the space. Tableaus of mannequins form clusters throughout these rooms breaking down how to wear seasonal trends.

In Essentials Acne provides a chino bar, denim comes from brands such as Current/Elliott and there's a comprehensive mix of t-shirts, cashmere jumpers and trench coats from brands such as Splendid, American Vintage, Aquascutum and APC.

Contemporary sees archetypal Liberty brands such Vivienne Westwood, Vanessa Bruno, Future Classics and Luella sit alongside new editions such as Australian Tina Kalivas and the Cacharel 50th anniversary collection consisting of archive pieces reworked in their original Liberty prints.

And don't miss a comprehensive footwear floor with one of the best designer offerings around - Marni, Alaia, Chloe and Rupert Sanderson next to Miu Miu, Givenchy and Prada.

Liberty's VIP concierge service has also shifted up a gear with a revamp of the private shopping area now called the Style Service suite - members can book in to shop the entire department store's offer in privacy and with expert style advice from the Liberty team of experts.

Check out my Picasa album photo file for a visual walk through here:

Liberty spring 09 relaunch

SLVR for spring

2009-02-04T04:00:00.000-08:00

I've just seen the new adidas SLVR line launching in stores this month - and it's got me thinking about a whole new fitness wardrobe for spring.

Following the German sports brands other successful sub-brand launches such as Y3 and the Stella McCartney collaboration, SLVR sits just underneath in terms of price point and serves a more mass market fashion-led sports lifestyle customer. Think Uniqlo meets Gap with a sports mindset.

The range includes non-branded (very important that, not a trefoil in sight) menswear, womenswear and accessories, and the look is fluid, easy and very everyday wearable. Great colours too.

Chris Barbour, head of global digital marketing for adidas sport style division described it: "Kicking off the first season with the mantra ‘Simply Perfect’, the range shows a timeless and considered design; one that conveys a minimalist character, yet is fresh and progressive."

The first retail store is set to open in New York during Fashion Week, with stores in Paris, Los Angeles and Miami to follow. It's ecommerce only for the UK at www.adidas.com/slvr. Meanwhile I thought I'd share not one but two youthful and energetic pieces of communication: look book and viral film - view here on vimeo.

Shot by renowned photographer Mark Segal and art directed by Pietsch Lim, the SLVR promo film brings the new concept to life through strong black and white visuals and a sound track by Say Hi to Your Mom.

Winterizing

2009-01-28T14:42:00.000-08:00

Taking a good look at the footwear on offer at Bread & butter in Barcelona last week there was a real trend for the perennial hunting, shooting, fishing looks of the season. I loved all the wools and texturized fabrications. Hell stick in some sheepskin as an inner lining and you're all set for winter. My favourite was the Woorich and Converse collaboration - a work boot for the Chuck Taylor that says lumberjack boot. The sales rep described the range as a result of Converse wanting to "winterize" its key products.

Captions top to bottom: DMs, Tretorn, Schmoove, Converse

Paris menswear: new life at old houses

2009-01-26T07:44:00.000-08:00

From fusty and musty to shiny and new this AW09 Paris menswear season is all about who's breathing new life into the old French houses and the Germans and Brits are in on the act too.

This season's Paris men's fashion week kicked off with visiting German "house" label Hugo by Hugo Boss and now designed by Beligan designer Bruno Pieters - who is charged with making Hugo cool again. He looks set to be on course with a dark brooding colour palette of mostly black and white (set against the signature Hugo red runway) mixed with monotone graphic and optical print pieces. Very Germanic and very post-modern for a new take on the oft-referenced Kraftwerk look of the early 80s.

Meanwhile their efforts for womenswear have proved hotter than last season's it bag, so why not try the same for menswear? It's time for a roll-call of some of the most talented designers in Paris to expand their remits this season - as Antonio Marras at Kenzo, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Nicholas Decarnin at Balmain all take over the men's creative direction of their respective houses for AW 09.

At Kenzo, Marras took his troop of young men off to Russia for a journey of military influences through the ages. With the usual visual feast of inspirations as his set Marras projected scenes of industrial unrest onto giant video screens along the runway with cartoonish communist imagery and landmarks such as St Basils along the way. But it was the way Marras expertly enveloped his models in layers of pastel military tones or delicate Japanese embroidery on outerwear producing a lightness of touch for such a heavy subject. Marras is very much at home for Kenzo.

And at Givenchy, Tisci took over from the obscure "design team" initially for last season and looks to be getting into his well known gothic, romantic stride, as with his women's offer. Focusing on fetishistic leatherwear and layering of textures, such as shine over matt, chains next to skin, cobweb knits or sexy lacing and thick wool cabans it looks as if Tisci has also found his comfort zone for the house.

Decarnin at Balmain was a quiet, exclusive (off-schedule) affair for a handful of buyers and press only. Still riding on the success of a widely acclaimed womenswear collection this spring, Decarnin delivered much of the same roughed up outerwear and denim mix for an expensive take on the 80s look last worn by boy band Bros.

Meanwhile Stuart Vevers at Loewe is following two seasons of hit womenswear collections with a new approach to menswear for the Spanish leather house. His is a quiet luxe approach to gentlemanly dressing using what he describes as a "louche" feel inspired by French actor Alain Delon.

While we're on the subject of another guest fashion designer perfectly at home in Paris, another newbie on the schedule is Jean Paul Knott for the house of Cerruti now in his second season. This winter Knott has focused on developing contrasting textures, a house palette of blues and more relaxed silhouettes - easy dressing for older men?

All eyes were on Brit designer Kim Jones for his debut at British menswear establishment Dunhill. He didn't disappoint with his approach to new traditionalism: "It was about taking the DNA of Dunhill and turning it into now - the leather, the white shirt, the Dunhill blazer." Strong points were the flat front tailoring, blazers and graphic panel knits - effortless charisma stuff. And he has years of fun to look forward to unearthing all those art deco vintage trinkets and leatherware items.

And it was about time someone got around to reviving one of the fustiest French houses of them all. Façonnable has been more popular in the US than France for years but not in a good way. New creative chief Eric Wright is an industry veteran having worked for Lagerfeld and Cavalli for years. His unisex vision for the house has luxury and comfort at its core and he has not lost sight of his mainstay WASP customer with plenty of shrug-on blazers, comfy cords and cosy cashmere knits. Describing one of his favourite pieces as a "preppy wool tuxedo" for "when you forget you're wearing something" Wright looks sure to breathe new life in fusty old Faconnable.

Lamentable news is that the rumour mill is cranking up again for Dior Homme designer Kris van Assche who's show for the house was in keeping with his new steady creative vision - all plays on volume and the Belgian's twist on relaxed tailoring options. How long will he last? The odds don't look good, especially when you find out that LVMH boss Bernard Arnault is bankrolling Gareth Pugh's first dedicated menswear show in Paris and you compare his gothic, slimline and edgy signature style with that of the much lauded ex-Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane. Actions speak louder than words on this subject.

It's worth remembering the success stories of past menswear appointments still going strong at Parisian houses. Marc Jacobs can do no wrong for Louis Vuitton - especially with this season's take on "the travelling wardrobe of an African king"; Véronique Nichanian at Hermès who wanted to add some sexiness and energy to the menswear collection she has been overseeing for 20 years; the formidable rise of Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin with this winter's move into relaxed military looks and the exclusive domain that Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga rules.

I like the way The Fashionisto describes this winter's collection: "Unlike Raf Simons, designer Nicolas Ghesquière realizes that a necessity for the upcoming season is wearable pieces that will have a long life."(pictures from Hypebeast via WWD)

Old or new there's a wealth of talent keeping menswear interesting for this winter season.

Captions top to bottom: Hugo by Hugo Boss, Kenzo, Givenchy, Loewe, Cerutti, Dunhill, Façonnable, Dior Homme, Gareth Pugh, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Lanvin, Balenciaga

Paris menswear mixes pared down utility with outdoor appeal at trade shows

2009-01-23T05:55:00.000-08:00

Tranoi Homme and new success story Capsule are leading the charge among independent retailers and contemporary labels as the Paris trade shows with the most to offer discerning menswear customers.

And trends are a plenty, if pared down utility and outdoor pursuits are of interest. Labels to watch included Jehee Sheen, a Korean designer who is ex-Armani and just starting out on his own. See clever ways with tailoring and tuxedo shapes re-worked.

Look out for Nude's all black collection of exquisite knits - long line cardigans and jackets work the Italian knitwear specialist's signature textures and intricate twisted garments into new menswear shapes. This is tactile yet dark utilitarian dressing for a new layering mood.

Coal Black looks set to have a strong season with its modern take on US lumberjack outerwear jackets meets indie rocker kid. 70s shapes combine padded leather bombers and washed denim shirts with skinny tailored pants and great tweeds or shearling jackets in heather and purple or black.

In the same vein is RT Ramdane Touhami that rocker meets hillbilly look has his name stamped all over it!

Over at Capsule - British favourites such as YMC, Oliver Spencer and Tim Soar are pulling in the crowds of US buyers while Swedish label 5th Avenue Shoe Repair is also proving popular. Nom de Guerre and April 77 are top of the denim and casual arena.

Footwear too is strong - at both Tranoi and Capsule. Hottest brands include newcomer Sewn for its high end Italian leather padded boots and serious hiking numbers, Common Projects for more of the same elegant high tops, and Japanese designer Kenjiikeda's fur lined hikers for pure luxury.

Captions from top: Jehee Sheen, Common Projects, Sewn, Coal Black, Nude, Kenjiikeda, RT Ramdane Touhami, Tim Soar, Nom de Guerre, YMC, April 77, Creative Recreation, Oliver Spencer.

Check out my album of product photos for my edited highlights from Tranoi and Capsule AW 09:

Tranoi Homme Paris Jan 2009

Dover Street Market: Tachiagari, spring 09

2009-01-18T05:17:00.000-08:00

London's designer emporium Dover Street Market has unveiled new spring offerings in its seasonal Tachiagari - and it's another fine season to visit the Comme des Garçons curated space full of designer treasures and exclusive collaborations.

This season the preview event (last Friday) for press was marked with a limited edition book signing for A Bathing Ape founder Nigo's new tome and a resulting 200 deep queue outside the store. Some were queuing for a glimpse of their hero and some were waiting for the UK's first ever Nowhere boutique to open first thing Saturday. Loved the Bathing Ape PR nails that my blogging buddy snapped on Disney Roller Girl.

Hidden away downstairs in the basement at DSM, Nowhere became an underground phenomenon 15 years ago when the tiny collaborative store from Nigo and Jun Takahashi (Undercover) opened in Harajuku, Tokyo. It was a pivotal moment in the early 90s revival of Harajuku's fashion scene. For 2009, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons has invited Takahashi and Nigo to recreate Nowhere in the basement at DSM. Among the initial selection of Nowhere sweats and tees, will be a revival of Last Orgy - the first collection of items that Jun and Nigo made together. The replicated DSM Nowhere boutique takes over from the previous A Bathing Ape store in Soho and acts as the exclusive London stockist for both A Bathing Ape and Billionaire Boys Club - with its own space just opposite Nowhere.

Still in the basement new additions include the second Stuart Vevers for Loewe collection (all bright pop colours, mixed leathers and serious gold hardware on handbags, jewellery and luggage) where the hot London designer is setting the classic Spanish leather goods company alight - alongside the latest Ferragamo vintage shoe display - all one offs from the archive.

Moving upstairs don't miss the striking giant black octopus in the entrance window from interior design collective Les Trois Garçons. The collaborative polystyrene piece was commissioned by Kawakubo who wanted "something dark and futuristic to go with the spring Comme des Garçons collection", according to creative director Hassan Abdullah, who has also curated an antique furniture area on the second floor - shoes and accessories mingle among the art curios and vintage pieces - it's in place until the end of February.

Moving on up check out the refreshed first floor area housing the new Comme des Garçons Shirt collection. I loved the glass casing and new shaded paneled shirting - not to mention the colour pops of Tricker brogues.

And on second there's a raft of firsts from a refreshed Undercover space to a rich, eclectic corner featuring World Archive's vintage wardrobe of costumes from around the world. A treasure trove of global fineries that will keep collectors there browsing for hours. Also new on this floor is Adam Kimmel, Charles Anastase, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Thom Browne.

Up another floor on third and all hail to Alber Elbaz for Lanvin with the brand new Lanvin area where mannequins are lounging around iChatting to each other about their favourite bags (I like to think they are leaving comments on their favourite blogs). Menswear and womenswear join the new denim capsule range alongside a selection of bridal pieces. Fashion and technology mingle in the epitome of hi-fi style. And if that wasn't enough Stephen Jones pours his hat creations onto a neon pink tree hat stand. Just around the corner find newbies at DSM including Sophia Kokosalaki, Rodarte, David Szeto among a newly dressed corner from Hussein Chalayan and an alcove full of brown tickets hiding the Edition 24 by YSL. Meanwhile Pierre Hardy footwear has a new area showcasing the French designer's futuristic sports collection for men and women.

From sneaker and footwear finds such as Visvim or Ferragamo and music/fashion hybrid labels April 77 or Kitsune, DSM houses the creme of current global fashion brands - and the best range of innovative, collaborative designer spaces. In today's current retail climate it's entertainment within retail environments that keeps loyal customers coming back for more - something Rei Kawakubo knows and executes in new ways every season at DSM.

Louis Vuitton returns to Sprouse for day-glo reminisce

2009-01-09T02:58:00.000-08:00

Next week sees the launch of Louis Vuitton's latest limited edition collaboration - a reminiscent collection celebrating the work of the late artist and designer Stephen Sprouse - further to the original collaboration in 2001.

After creative chief Marc Jacobs worked with Sprouse earlier this decade the re-juiced collection is described as "a realisation of ideas they perceived when they worked together in 2001," or more specifically it's re-run made modern again for today's global youth tribes with dayglo graffiti and rose prints. Here's a selection of pieces I found in the press showroom - in stores January 15.

These "legacy" motifs are re-interpreted in fluro pink, green, orange and yellow - across shoes, sneakers, t-shirts and leather goods such as the iconic "Speedy" carry all - and have a distinctly clubber-friendly appeal for the affluent customers Louis Vuitton counts from China to Russia to India and Tokyo, not to mention New York where they will surely be a nocternal hit. Especially these shoes - spring 09 will be the season of the Sprouse shoe for Louis Vuitton!

"I tried to use the things in Stephen's vocabulary, and give the collection the shape, silhouette and styling that Stephen would have done when he was at the top of his game. It really is a complete homage, and a complete combination of what is Louis Vuitton, and what is this legendary icon, and then what are the icons and the lasting aesthetics that Stephen left in the fashion world," said Marc Jacobs.

The collection is timed to coincide with the opening of a Sprouse retrospective called Rock on Mars at Deitch Projects' 18 Wooster Street Gallery in New York and the release of The Stephen Sprouse Book by Roger and Mauricio Padilha, which is published by Rizzoli. A limited-edition series of books featuring a special Louis Vuitton cover will also be available in Louis Vuitton stores worldwide.

All Saints has eyes on the US in 09

2009-01-02T10:18:00.000-08:00

East London rock-chick label All Saints is going global with late 2008 having seen a raft of European store openings (Paris, Antwerp, Copenhagen) ahead of a New York flagship due by summer.

The Shoreditch favourite worn by celebrities and fashionista types across the UK (100+ stores) has gone from strength to strength as the goth-meets-glam clubber label becomes better known for its dark Satanic graphics, draped jersey or knitwear pieces, military sharp tailoring and lived in denim mixed with embellished partywear dresses.

For spring 09 we love the skull and cross-bones pirates and sirens graphic t-shirt dresses (sure to be a hit from LA to NY - now shipping on the All Saints website, as well as the optic paint-splash printed cottons or jersey dresses for understated cool. And battered leather jackets and fringed western style suede gilets have a great vintage look. Ruched, asymmetric seamed and raw-edge knitwear has varying thickness - perfect for layering, while marl jerseywear separates comprise a new sleepwear range for lounging (dorm life anyone?). Highlights to snaffle early include washed out draped leather biker jackets and parachute volume hem dresses. Prom-dresses with harnesses for attitude have never looked so good.

Pop-ups are good for you

2008-12-03T07:39:00.000-08:00

The Americans are much better at gifting than the Brits which would explain the plethora of pop-up stores this Holiday season in New York. And the UK high-street can learn a thing or two from the savvy US retail marketing industry that would prefer to throw a temporary bricks and mortar option at consumers than say a couple of days of frenzied voucher shopping.

It's December and that means any excuse to entice customers out to shop - but why not make it an enjoyable one and dare I say it – give something back to credit-crunch weary consumers? Consumer insight agency The Future Laboratory recently called it "Freesumerism" on their new lifestyle trends site LSN:Global and the practice of utilising third parties to provide useful, free products or services in return for a bit of a branded retail experience is something consumers are open to in their overly marketed lives.

So take note from the WIRED store in New York - rich in gadgets and man-friendly products hosted by the US magazine this Holiday season for the third year in a row; or similarly manly but with a touch more jet-set class is the Monocle pop-up shop from Tyler Brûlé's well considered magazine. Open for six month's on Marylebone High Street in London, the store is intended to showcase a selection of connoisseur type products and limited edition gifts. Brûlé calls it "neighbourhoodsy" and "adding something new to the mix". Meanwhile for another target market all together check out Teen Vogue's Haute Holiday store full of the magazine's pick of advertisers' targeted products in a fluffy teen hang-out kinda space. And who do you think was behind Mo’s Place for Everyman charity event Movember? The moustache trimming specialist Wilkinson Sword, and a branding team on-site who gave tips for free with every trimmer.

The big guns are always at it too: Gap Red has got in on the act with its dedicated Holiday shop and who could fault the fashion week publicity bonanza that was Target's Bodegas.

Some pop-ups are there to show associated brand kudos - trendy denim brand Earnest Sewn uses its backroom as an evolving designer showcase and has just launched a "recession proof pop-up" selling off a selection of this year's roster of designers.

Essentially pop-ups serve as a constantly changing marketing space and can be used as more than just a PR tool – Absolut’s recent vintage boutique House of Masquerade three-day party pop-up was a textbook of example of how to throw third party cash around and create an experience. More marketers and retailers should get together and innovate in today’s competitive retail climate that is crying out for experience – we don’t mind the ads as long as we get something for free.

Pop-up dining projects are pure collaboration in London

2008-11-24T07:05:00.000-08:00

It's pop-up time in London and the run up to Christmas is a feast of restaurant collaborations and blink-and-they'll-be-booked-up dining experience locations. So two new destinations to make sure you visit (before the in-crowd has moved on) are The Double Club in Angel and Flash in Mayfair. One is a bar-club meets relaxed diner "installation" sponsored by the Fondazione Prada; while the other is an art-fashion crowd gallery come restaurant from the Bistroteque crew.

Flash is the latest pop-up restaurant made into a makeshift reality by Pablo Flack, David Waddington and Tom Collins, hidden away in the GSK Contemporary gallery at the back of the Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington Gardens. Flash follows on from Bistroteque's first festive pop-up restaurant Reindeer but instead of snow covered ornaments this year's effort has a "refined" air as Waddington puts it, with a California-influenced menu and an all-star collaboration team: the rising London architecture star David Kohn built the set from art-storage crates, the fashion designer Giles Deacon created a "psychedelic Death Star" chandelier, and the Wedgwood china has been customized by the illustrator Will Broome. Everything will be auctioned on eBay when Flash closes on January 19, with proceeds donated to the Royal Academy.

Meanwhile just opened in an old warehouse behind Angel tube (and in situ for six months only) is The Double Club. Conceived by experimentalist Carsten Höller and bankrolled by the philanthropic art home of Fondazione Prada it's a collaboration space showing the contrasting appeal of both Congalese and Western cultures.

With one side of the room dedicated to a Congalese wooden bar made from timber shipped from Kinshasa and colourful artworks across the walls the juxtaposition of contrasting cultures is clear with the lavish "Two Horses Riders Club" copper design bar in the Western corner. Add in the carved out segregated floor, partnered menus and twinned club areas and you get the idea for mixing it up at The Double Club.

"Instead of doing an art exhibition it's good to do something which disappears with reality - and get confused doing it. It's not an art space, it's a mix of cultures," says Germano Celant from the Fondazione Prada. He continued the idea was to produce something real in an art world where prices are sky rocketing. "It's promoting art but more the dialogue between two cultures and the questions that in itself raises in people's knowledge of these cultures."

Höller describes it as "About having a juxtaposition of two things at once and celebrating one's state of indecisiveness" he thinks it's a human condition "to be double".

It's certainly a double dose of cultural treats if the menu is anything to go by - and that's before you've hit the revolving dancefloor.

Playful windows - from fantasy Card characters to cartoon superheroes

2008-11-19T01:45:00.000-08:00

Bruton Street in Mayfair came over all fantasy last week with set designer Gary Card taking up residence in Stella McCartney's windows while Diane Von Furstenberg hosted a party in honour of her favourite cartoon character Superwoman with comics given out in store to a lucky few.

I loved that set designer and artist Gary Card illustrated his work in a LIVE window at Stella's store - using colouring pencils to create naive and charming over-layered drawings of animals, dinosaurs, superheros and fantasy inspired characters onto children's wardrobes - his work has a playful appeal and you are naturally drawn into his workspace as window watcher. Card has previously worked with the likes of Paul Smith, Cassette Playa, Uniqlo and for Henry Holland's Fashion space at Dover Street Market and the club kid has been likened to Andy Warhol for his mop of blonde hair.

Meanwhile just next door at DVF it's all about Wonderwoman and strong cartoon characters. I love the zaney action hero stuff these images are made of - you too can have superhuman powers dressing in DVF.

And still on the playful, colouful tip Matthew Williamson doesn't disappoint with a beautiful, far-away land window display. All the drama is in the clothes and this display has so much going on it's worth taking the time to go on Williamson's eclectic journey wherever it is.

Just another day stalking windows and retail in London.

CDG for H&M: and then there was none

2008-11-13T04:57:00.000-08:00

Huge anticipation for the fifth annual designer collection at H&M this year from arguably one of the most conceptual and respected designers around Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Actually this is the cleverest collaboration yet - H&M's choice to not just throw advertising money at its two Tokyo store launches and Japan debut there this autumn, but create a natural localised promotion that talks to a wide (and new) customer base both there and globally. Japanese marketing website Mekas covered the Ginza opening back in September and called it the news of the month.

“I thought it would be an exciting event to work with H&M in order to sell Comme des Garçons clothes in places where they have never been sold and to appeal to people who may not yet understand Comme des Garçons. Marrying the commercial expertise of H&M with Comme des Garçons creation was a fascinating challenge", says Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons.

“This collection really reflects Kawakubo’s creative spirit and integrity. It is complete with the designer’s trademark, independent style and clever cuts - elaborate tailoring, shirts, knits and a series of playful jersey pieces in dramatic black and midnight blue with accents of white and rose”, says H&M’s Creative Advisor Margareta van den Bosch.

So the preview launch day in Tokyo (a full six days ahead of the rest of the world) produced the expected crowds and usual queues of Japanese fashionistas - but we weren't sure if it was because it was CDG for H&M or because it was H&M and it was new. Or even because it was Hara-juku and that's what they do there every Saturday. Some even queued days in advance to get their hands on the limited edition collection.

That was a clear signal to the rest of the world to prepare to shop the collection early. So after the lookbook went on-line a full month in advance and the preview windows went on display a few days in advance there were no excuses.

But who knew so many London based Japanese CDG fans would be there bright and early to snaffle all the top pieces. They obviously started queuing the night before! Polite but deadly!

However I got most of my wish-list: the spotty cardigan and matching scarf, frilled sleeve blouse, perfect peg-leg length jodpur trousers and the asymmetric hem jacket. I loved the panel-front and frill stitch coat but alas there weren't any to be seen.

As this H&M designer shopping frenzy is always near by birthday it's an annual ritual/ treat but this was my favourite - in some ways because there was only one merch drop so in true Rei style this is very limited edition and also because it paved a seamless and credible path for the retailer into the hallowed Japanese retail market.

We've said it before and we may say it again but how to top this one?

Victorinox looks sharp on Bond Street

2008-11-10T10:52:00.000-08:00

Swiss army knife brand Victorinox has opened a new European flagship store on London's Bond Street - and the three floor lifestyle concept space features an in-store forest and touch-screen consumer test to make customers feel at home among the knives.

Swiss retail design specialist Retail Partners created a completely new look store design for the Swiss knife specialist, which it interpreted by creating a design with a strong product focus. There are six product categories for sale over the three floors. The ground floor is dedicated to mens sportswear, timepieces and fragrances, the first floor is for seasonal womenswear and the lower ground floor sells travel gear, chef's knives and Swiss army knives.

The prize for store highlight is a toss up between the 10m-high case containing pen knives running through the stairwell, and stretching through three floors of the building, which occupies 4,500 sq ft of retail space. Or alternatively we loved the second floor forest chill out area. Very mountain like. And adding some fun and customer interaction are the touch-screen 'lifestyle identity' games which serve to bring web activity - such as choosing the right product for the right customer - to life, on-screen. Enjoy deciding which knife goes with which jacket while sampling fresh fruit cocktails served from the ice-bar!

Retail Partners commented: "We wanted to create a much more authentic brand identity through three dimensional forms and work with a smaller colour palette." Victorinox plans to roll out the new design to the Tokyo and New York stores.

Last week saw the opening launch party with vertical "runway" in the glass stairwell and Swiss chef knife displays plus various Swiss DJ sets to rock the fashionable crowd.

West is best: Westfield mall is a retail dream

2008-11-03T04:21:00.000-08:00

London's brand new Westfield shopping mall opened last week in Shepherds Bush /White City and is the largest urban mall in Europe with over 150,000 sq m of retail space at a cost of £1.7m. This is a retail planner's dream with the ability to start from scratch in terms of ideal brand adjacencies coupled with a premium courtship of retailers from around the world with a key location and must-visit mall of the future. A win-win situation for consumers and retailers alike that ensures shoppers stay all day - just like I did.

The first of three major mall developments from international mall operator Westfield (the next is in Stratford in time for the Olympics), the west London location is all set to become a destination shopping hotspot to rival other south of England malls such as Bluewater or Lakeside - which look dated in comparison now. And the best thing about the new Westfield London is that its full to the brim with new retail concepts - after Westfield developers gave retailers the challenge to push boundaries when it came to store design innovation.

A host of retailers launched new store concepts at the mall that is anchored by Marks & Spencer, Next, House of Fraser and Debenhams with Waitrose as key supermarket anchor for food.

Fashion brands lead the way for launching new store concepts. House of Fraser was the major anchor retail tenant to pass on the challenge to its vendors to focus on innovation - with Whistles a clear leader in the new formats launch game. New CEO of Whistles, Jane Shepherdson was there on opening day to check out the brand new calmer, cleaner, pale store design that allows customers to browse the collections with focus.

Elsewhere M&S looked to have placed new importance on its visual merchandising with a runway running through the middle of the ground floor full of mannequins. A focus on each of its sub-brands with clear concession areas can only work in the retailers favour - from Autograph to Limited Collection and the best-selling Per Una. The new Patricia Field for M&S celebrity collection is merchandised centre stage and is full of the New York City super stylist's character.

A walk through Next's giant corner site leaves no lifestyle dressing option unturned with all the retailer's merchandise categories catered for - known for kidswear and homewear the retailer and mail-order giant dedicated its ground floor areas to these best selling products.

Meanwhile many retailers debuted brand new retail formats including New Look, Ted Baker, Oasis and Topshop from the high-street sector. Topshop's new store layout - featuring giant neon framed boxes for mannequins and a clubby atmosphere - will be the same as the New York flagship now slated to open in February. Ted Baker's latest store was based on greyhound racing according to founder Ray Kelvin who said the store would do well as part of the west London location. Barratts and Aldo also put new footwear concepts to the test while Terra-Plana and Timberland both unveiled new sustainable retail designs using reclaimed wood. Some retailers even had fun with their new shop fits - I loved Camper's "X marks the spot meet me here" store. Plus it was first time around for a handful of overseas retailers including Ugg, Pull & Bear, Hollister and Matchka.

Meanwhile the hoards of half-term shoppers praised the new site as catering to their every whim - from high-street to department store to luxury designer brands in the dedicated "Designer Village" area that saw many vendors missing the opening deadline day. Reports suggested the luxury brands involved blamed "complicated and luxury shop fits" for the delay. Only a handful opened on time including Christian Dior, Tiffany, Hugo Boss, Tommy Hilfiger, Hackett, Myla, Twenty Eight Twelve and Donna Ida boutiques. Prada, Miu Miu, Mulberry and Gucci are all scheduled to open by December with Louis Vuitton finally opening by March.

There were over 160,000 visitors on opening day according to Westfield executives who said consumers were defying the credit crunch by voting with their feet and supporting London's new shopping centre.

Here's looking forward to the East End version coming soon to Stratford.

For a mall tour in pictures see below selection plus my Picasa album:

Westfield London mall tour inside