Bish-Shops

Anthropologie is retail magic

2009-10-24T10:10:00.000-07:00

At last! Anthropologie has finally opened on London's Regent Street. As a seasoned US Anthro customer I was beyond excited at the prospect having a good look around at the press preview on Wednesday - and they added a sumptuous tea party spread to boot!

So the real secret of Anthropologie's success Stateside is the clever VM and eclectic product display that mixes fashion, homewares and lifestyle with a certain je ne sais quoi that sews it all together. It's retail magic that makes you want to buy everything! Each store has two dedicated VM experts that change around new product all the time and are responsible for the story telling aesthetic Anthropologie is known for. From wardrobe to bedroom to kitchen table to pantry and even to garden (with sister retail brand Terrain) it's all there to be discovered.

When I asked visual manager Camdon Richardson what was his secret he told me the devil is in the detail: "It's all down to the little touches I put in the nooks and crannies to catch people's attention. Some of our shoppers are used to Anthropologie displays (and love us for it) but others are captivated when we add the little related product ideas and special props we find from our travels around the world. It's about inspiring people to follow our style in their home so I like to show them how to do it for themselves." He added that the London store has been his favourite so far because the UK - and Europe provides such a rich cultural melting pot of ideas. "It's a huge first step for us here in Europe."

James Bidwell is MD of the Urban Outfitters owned new Anthro UK. He told me: "We're all about experience and we exist to provide our customers with a journey of discovery in-store. The secret of the store is the merchandising. Average dwell time per customer is an hour and a half and it's because there's so much to discover. It's like layering different product stories for the customer." He added that the creative visual team take a completely different approach to each store - they're based in each one and take inspiration locally. So London means Union Jack wall hangings, quilts and throws - with one even styled on a mannequin as a skirt to throw the different departments together.

Other quirky highlights in-store include the giant lifesize Narwhal hanging above the laden tabletop display (made from all the plastic packaging from the products shipped in for opening, and covered in paper mache), the Magpie chandeliers made by South African artist communities, the Christmas room complete with snowy clouds (check out Anthro's wonderful ornaments selection) and last but certainly not least is the 2000 sq ft growing plant wall complete with over 80,000 plants, created by UK based company Biotech. "It's like a green oasis on Regent Street". If you look closely the plants are arranged in a plaid check formation and are supported by their very own sustainable irrigation system from the roof. The wall together with the three storey staircase (made from reclaimed wooden frames), stitches the building together. Oh and I nearly forgot the stunning circular hanging window display made from hundreds of dip-dyed used tea-bags. Very British!

I also had a quick chat with head of buying Olivia Richardson who said she wanted to bring over what was relevant from the US and translate it for the UK market. "We had our London customer firmly in mind and wanted to source the local market to make the Anthropologie offer right for Europe. So we're doing a number of collaborations with both the interiors and fashion offers including a capsule range with Eley Kishimoto and several items from the boutique Beyond the Valley. We have also worked with French artist Nathalie Lete to create some one off home pieces and British interior designer duo Clarke and Reilly have created a line of hand crafted furniture exclusively for us."

She added: "Our customer encounters everything from textiles to home accessories, as well as decorative antiques and vintage objects that are literally found by our buyers who travel the world in search of originality that's right for Anthropologie."

Wow 'buyer at large' sounds like my dream job!

As usual I didn't hold back snapping away inside, here's my selection of pics for your visual delight!

Anthropologie Regent Street

Mademoiselle chic at Tranoï Femme where biker girl meets quirky sophisticate for key autumn trends

2009-03-10T01:45:00.000-07:00

Tranoï Femme autumn/winter 2009/10, Paris

Tranoï Femme is where to find all those chic French labels alongside a range of contemporary designer European finds that organizer Michael Hadida scours the fashion cities of the world hunting out.

Held at the same time as Paris Fashion Week and taking place in three separate venues it’s the leading Paris womenswear trade show alongside other salons such as Rendez-vous, Atmosphere and Premiere Classe.

This season Hadida was trying out a new location – the Carrousel de Louvre (the same venue as many of the catwalk shows) - and it was certainly hard to beat for footfall appeal right next door to all the action of the runways.

“We wanted to try something new this season with the location, it’s a key venue for buyers and we wanted to make it even easier for them to visit the salon and see this season’s pick of European designer labels we’ve found to showcase.”

Trends

80s looks and sculptured tailoring were strong trends coming through while zippered detail on dresses and biker style jackets were big order book favourites. A full range of chunky, cable, ruffle and cardigan knits were popular while slinky satins and graphic animal or plaid prints were also moving.

Colours and fabrics were muted and tactile with nude camels, creams and beiges mingling with grey, navy or black. Pops of berry or purple shades kept things lively with hints of burnt orange and metallic along the way.

Brands to watch

Tranoï is a great place to find those French, mostly Sentier based brands that have that insouciant, gamine and oh so chic Parisian look about them. The likes of Heimstone, Love Milla, Madame a Paris, Les Prairies de Paris and Le Mont St Michel alongside newcomer Roseanna were our top picks.

Heimstone’s 80s boyfriend jackets, zip body-con dresses, Aztec print details and snake or suede jackets hit the spot.

Love Milla’s silken blouses, dresses, kaftans and pretty tops have Cruise season cover-ups, or silky feminine options all sewn up.

Madame a Paris went for a real 80s vibe with a fun mix of polka dots, plaid, brocade, lace and tuxedo crop tailoring styles for the chic mademoiselles of Paris.

Les Prairies de Paris has a slightly more grown up appeal – serious outerwear such as suede shrug-on coats or harness fastening capes – alongside charming well-cut wool tailored dresses, silky blouses and sporty blousons.

Accessories were also strong with key footwear brands such as Tattoosh, L’Autre Chose and couturier Behnaz Kanani as well as futuristic biker girl style from Raphael Young all standing out. Post & Co had a way with VM for their belted balloons and hat brand CA4LA was first out of the blocks at the entrance with eye catching fuzzy headgear.

Authenticity key at Capsule Paris, brands focus on heritage design values

2009-06-30T08:19:00.000-07:00

Capsule spring/summer 2010, Paris
26-28 June 2009

Progressive streetwear trade-show Capsule, hosted its third Paris edition last month, with a discerning offer of mostly menswear and accessories brands. Contemporary, designerwear, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections that majored on authenticity and heritage design values. Many brands told the story of their making with localized, vintage inspirations.

It's one of the best, not to mention earliest indications of the forthcoming season's trends - and boasts an impressive list of international retailers scouting brands that will make a difference. Even US trends website PSFK said it wished it could have attended. (Despite the fact that Capsule travels to NY and Vegas in the next month for repeat shows - I guess they just couldn't wait.) Well I couldn't wait to post my report either! I've highlighted trends and a few of my favourite brands, plus posted my usual album of photos - see end of report for link.

Captions top to bottom: Haversack, Creative Recreation, Camo, April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Organiser Edina Sultanik-Silver said she thought the mix of labels from Europe, Japan and the US was Capsule’s strongest to date and after only three seasons the show has quickly become a must visit for independent boutiques and department stores. She added there has been an influx of Japanese, Asia and US buyers this season paying particular attention to the British contingent due to the weakened pound. “The show is pitched as both progressive and saleable and we feel the market level is coming together with an interesting mix of heritage and new brands, balancing edgy with mainstream.”

Commercial trends & key pieces

Summer outdoor pursuits, classic nautical and authentic workwear pieces appeared as commercial themes. Light summer knits and jersey outerwear were surprising bestsellers among exhibitors. Highlights such as fine gauge cable fisherman knits, matelot stripes, short workwear or equestrian blazers, worn-out look shirting or long-sleeve placket front tops, whimsical floral prints and pleat-front tailored shorts all injected some newness into the men’s streetwear and contemporary arena for spring/summer 10.

Brands to watch

Top picks from visitors at the show included Cole Rood & Haan, Haversack, SNS Herning, Norsea Industries and Our Legacy. US fashion journalist & stylist Cator Sparks said: “I love the original story-telling aesthetic behind brands such as Our Legacy, Gitman Vintage, Cole Rood & Haan or SNS Herning. Fashion brands have to show their authenticity nowadays.”

Online retailer, My Wardrobe creative director Luisa de Paula added that British brands such as Garbstore, JW Anderson, Peter Jensen, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, B-Store and Lyle & Scott were her key show picks.

Apparel:

5th Avenue Shoe Repair – this Swedish contemporary brand has become a hot export from Stockholm Fashion Week, and with womenswear as popular as its menswear offer the label is attracting an increasingly high-end stockist base. Key pieces for spring/summer 10 are drop crotch trousers, asymmetric seams and shorter blazer style jackets. Inside out lining and pocket details ensure parka style coats look fresh while washed out linen shirting and bleached denim add a summer vibe. A whimsical paisley print for shirts and tailored shorts injects some pattern interest.

April 77 – French denim and music brand April 77 is growing in collection size as well as global stockist list. Now separated into premium and core lines the three main themes for SS10 were rock n roll music, 80s denim or Apache Indian. Watch out for the myriad stone-wash denim options (on treggings too), camouflage or lumberjack print patterns and Apache Indian meets mid-Western desert styling touches.

Camo – Italian designer Stefano Ughetti looked to equestrian inspirations for his sportswear inspired collection with Arabian style dressing a clear direction. He learned how to ride horses especially for the designing process (in order to understand the functionality needs of riders) and named each piece after specific breeds. Dropped-crotch trousers and shorts alongside striped front-placket shirting and jersey polo shirts are key and a perennial bestseller for Camo. While the bold colour palette of solid colours for unlined cotton jackets with leather pockets and trimmed fine gauge knit cardigans, simple SB2 soft-structured blazers and simple front pocket tees are all key.

Haversack – Japanese label Haversack is one to watch for its love affair with British and establishment dressing aesthetic. Military and nautical themes appeared on tailored linen and light wool jackets or more casual jersey based safari-esque pieces. Plenty of pockets on outerwear pieces and layering of paisley shirting, chequered knits and gingham jersey jackets had an eccentric appeal. Put it all together and this Japanese collection looks well travelled.

Norsea Industries - The rugged appeal of the ocean was also central to Lancashire based label Norsea Industries with designer Stephen X’s new collection called “The Romance of Nature”. No nonsense brushed cotton twill jackets, chinos, cotton striped knits and whimsical fish or floral illustrated designs adorned jersey tees and plain tabard button down tops. Classic designs from days gone by made modern again for discerning menswear fans who like to keep it simple.

Our Legacy – Jockum Hallin from Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy says that the label’s design ethos was developed with the Swedish outdoors way of life in mind. Everything is kept simple and easy to wear with hunting & fishing style jackets, corduroy giets, soft-handle washed linen shirts, jersey or loosely tailored shorts and light knits all key. Hallin says the idea behind the collection is that the wearer passes on favourite or cherished pieces to future generations.

SNS Herning - The authentic fisherman cable knits in light merino wool and sea-island cotton from Danish brand SNS Herning were one of the highest quality brand offers we’ve ever seen. This young brand is still finding its feet (with a healthy kick start from Dover Street Market in London) makes second-skin knitwear with a heritage dating back to the 1930s.

Accessories:

Creative Recreation – the West Coast sneaker brand that features zip away high-top construction has extended its range to include summer-wear hiking boots and a range of canvas and leather brogue style shoes with asymmetric lacing details and soft rubber soles. The core range of high-tops has been updated for summer with over-painted and white-washed canvas, suede or leather options, texturised weave materials and dip-dyed designs.

Cole Rood & Haan – a new heritage offer from US luxury accessories giant Cole Haan sees handmade tanning and last-making for shoes come into spotlight as the brand embraces the story of its beginning. With press notes stating: “In 1928 Cole, Rood & Haan Co was introduced in Chicago, the epicenter of the Jazz movement. Through his flair for design, Trafton Cole created the company’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship while Eddie Haan elevated the brand to one known for service and style.” 80 years later their spirit is back and parent company Cole Haan can enjoy its history once more. Autumn/winter 09 was the brand’s first outing at retail so spring/summer 10 will follow its limited distribution. Light tan, vegetable dyed leathers, contrast panels of canvas and pale lacing feature in the small collection that has a washed out and lovingly created quality feel.

F-Troupe – British footwear brand F-Troupe offered new madras and ticking stripe designs for its simple desert boot styles. Lightweight primary coloured suede boots carried the label’s signature hiking style lacing and the new white sole design carried across for boat shoes and lace up brogues.

Springcourt – the French sports shoe legend has embraced pattern and print for summer, with madras checks, pixilated graphics and Aztec designs as highlights. Grey marl canvas was a basic contrast to the metallic coloured leathers that had a more rock vibe especially the stars n stripes with gold and silver metallic options for statement footwear.

For captions and more photos:

Capsule SS10 Paris June 09

Dover Street Market: Tachiagari AW comes early

2009-07-22T04:21:00.000-07:00

Autumn/Winter collections seem to arrive earlier and earlier each season and while most designer emporiums let the new deliveries slip quietly into store Dover Street Market has a completely new look each season called Tachiagari - and it's a refreshing way to introduce customers to the new designer offers with exciting corners, VM displays and personality enhancing spaces.

The press preview on Monday did not disappoint, so feast your eyes on my whirlwind tour of the new spaces (floor by floor - and then back again for a few bits I missed!).

First off, loved the colourful floral window display. Complete with heady scent, Andy Hillman has created a mystical garden illusion, entitled Endless Summer, which invites guests into what feels like a greenery tunnel. Andy Hillman is a set designer who regularly works with photographer Tim Walker (former DSM collaborator) forming whimsical and magical worlds.

And more of my personal favourites include the new Comme des Garcons Shirt for women corner (rose pink & frilly whites), the suspended hanging space for Hussein Chalayan, the 'front row of fashion' Lanvin show experience, Anne Valerie Hash's reading corner space, Charles Anastase's 'my own private museum' collection of drawings alongside his grown up chic outfits, the World corner complete with eccentric masks and vintage collectibles, Loewe's sumptuous leather bags, Ferragamo's vintage table laden with 70s era shoes and the hidden away, decadent new shoe "department" (love the axes on the carpet wall) carrying hot labels such as New Gen award winner Michael Lewis, Sergio Rossi, Bruno Frisoni, Mr Hare, Cleo B and T29. Nicholas Kirkwood's new geometric frame display is also nearby, next to the new YSL Edition 24 corner full of timeless classics - and don't miss the expanded Comme des Garcons Homme Deux tailoring desk.

The new Comme des Garçons pop-up brand Black made it's debut here a couple of weeks ago (now on the ground floor for 18 months) along with brand new shop fits for Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons Shirt (for men) with those active looking mannequins and Comme des Garçons mainline - the collection entitled, Wonderland draws its inspiration from creating illusions such as layering of materials and prints on accessories. Check out those chic military surrealist parkas.

Tao's little rail of frills is so cute and so is the Undercover space opposite - it's like a treasure trove at the top of the forbidden tower.

In fact there's a bit of a shoe thing going on too (great news for shoe lovers such as myself) for men and women.

Downstairs the basement has had a bit of a refurb too with a whole new sneaker space - carrying hotties like Volta, F-Troupe, Generic Surplus, Common Projects and new spaces for Engineered Garments, Original Fake, Visvim, Monocle, Supreme and the new own-label from Dover Street Market. Sadly it's the last collection for Number (N)ine down here too.

And finally, loving the new collector's book space from Idea Books - this week celebrating man's first steps on the moon.

Captions and more photos here:

DSM Tachiagari AW 09

Oasis talks to fashionistas for AW09

2009-05-01T05:19:00.000-07:00

Oasis previewed all its hottest looks for autumn/winter 09 last week and I can reveal the top trends to watch in-store will be: Rapture for the 80s vibe (full on sequin dresses and stretch lace mixed with studs); Modernist for a wearable take on the geometric, construction styles that are coming through loud and clear (pointy shoulders and angular lines I'm talking about you); Warrior for something a bit more street mixed with glam - liquid satins and fur layering; and Modern Vintage for a slightly softer mood with investment pieces to save up for.

Meanwhile I just loved the signposting throughout the presentation - talking fashion at you and not in a condescending way - let's hope these type of insightful messages make it into stores for clear communication. And this works well for signaling the Oasis sub-brands: new for autumn we have Shirt Tales - a fashion focused range of dresses and blouses made from shirts only. Also new is Drawn To You - a range of illustrations across jersey tees and dresses. 80s New Vintage continues to reinterpret the decade that lives on in fashion (check that bronze tuxedo jacket and some stunning LBD numbers). And not forgetting the Oasis Designer Collective, now in it's second season and working with graduates from The Royal College of Art.

So plenty to choose from and more of the trend messages in-store please!

New Look's it girl bash

2009-04-30T04:21:00.000-07:00

New Look's celebratory bash last night was a fashionista fest and filled to the brim with London's young it girls. I just loved Amber Le Bon's nonchalent chic look here. And is she sporting hot new Prism frames - just in-store at Browns? My friend Anna Laub's glasses certainly do find themselves on the finest chiselled features!

Peacock feathers flying at H&M

2009-04-23T01:48:00.000-07:00

The latest designer collaboration has hit at H&M and Matthew Williamson's new spring range was flying off the racks on Regent Street last night at the VIP / Vogue exclusive preview shopping evening, where Williamson's signature peacock feathers and bright colours were keeping early bird fashionistas happy.

With a queue stretching right around the block it was elbows sharpened to snaffle the hit items - the peacock print jersey dress and long flowing chiffon maxi dress were both early winners while the khaki crop biker jacket and fucshia or turquoise knit cardigans were also fastest off the racks.

Bestie mate Sienna Miller was floating around upstairs while Pixie Geldof was perusing the rails in earnest to try to find something mixing Williamson's hippie deluxe with her rock chick style!

This collection is one of H&M's biggest orders with "plenty to go around" according to PR people and with deliveries today to 1600 stores worldwide everyone should be able to get their hands on a peacock feather or two.

This week's designer collections activity goes to show the high street is still in love with the now common seasonal injection of a bit of celebrity hype and judging by the queues, consumers are still willing to pay for it. I'm wondering if Zandra Rhodes can pull it off for M&S later on this summer too?

Hulanicki highs at Topshop

2009-04-21T15:40:00.000-07:00

60s icon Barbara Hulanicki is the latest designer collaboration collection at Topshop and judging by tonight's launch event, this summer's playful pantsuits, chiffon print scarves and blouses will fly off the racks. Hitting stores on the 28th April, London's fashion hipsters had a week's headstart on the rest of the country with an exclusive private shopping event in Notting Hill's Millers Academy (antiques-laden literary private club).

This type of private shopping event has to be a winner in today's tired seen-it-all-before retail climate. The treasure trove ambiance of the venue and wardrobes full to bursting of the new collection probably helped matters - as did the cocktails and Delicious catering to fuel decision making.

Hulanicki was holding court among her Biba-era friends such as Jo Wood, Jan de Villeneuve and Cilla Black. She told me she'd had lots of fun working with the Topshop team on bringing her colourful sunny clothes to life again. And her favourite outfit is the grey suede crop jacket with matching high waisted shorts: "I can't wait to see how everything sells!" she said.

Chanel's new age bling: talisman jewellery

2009-04-17T17:21:00.000-07:00

After seeing Chanel's ready-to-wear jewellery collection today at the London HQ press day, I'm a new convert to the creative genius the fashion world knows as Karl Lagerfeld.

The range of art-deco inspired talisman like necklaces, rings and bracelets in delicate jade green and rose pink enamel have an instant collectable quality that will surely leave fashionistas helpless and wanting for more. The models from the show all ran off with the giant sphere rings and when compared to the colourful yet recession-friendly jersey quilted range of classic bags this season, well I know which I'd choose.

Is it finally true to say that "it jewellery" has taken over from "it bag" as luxury item of choice for today's recession conscious fashionista? Well for this one it is anyway...

Free money!

2009-04-17T03:00:00.000-07:00

Diesel has decreed that today is Black Friday and to help with our economic woes the denim giant is spraying London with free money!

Whether you find it hidden in an old wallet that Diesel is leaving lying around the capital's major transport hubs (shades of Margiela?) or just scattered on the pavements, this (illegal) tender is the finder's lucky ticket to up to 100% off merchandise at Diesel stores all over the weekend.

Is Renzo playing Charlie and the Chocolae Factory or is it just a case of money for old rope? Whatever the case this injection of "cash" into the economy is a welcome one!

Thank you for having me

2009-03-06T04:16:00.000-08:00

I love how retail just finds me sometimes. Last night wandering back to my hotel after a day of shows and showrooms in Paris, I stumbled across the launch party for exciting new lifestyle store Merci. And after writing about it for a piece on Philanthropic Retail for the LS:Nglobal trends website just last week I knew it was going to be good. But in reality it blew me away.

This vast cavernous home of lifestyle retailing is a lesson in exemplary merchandising techniques, curated by the founders of childrenswear brand Bonpoint, it caters to all your lifestyle whims - with a "thank-you" tone to the contributors who have taken part. From designers such as Stella McCartney, YSL, Paul Smith or Isabel Marant, Prairies de Paris and Barbara Bui to a well curated vintage offer, beautiful childrenswear section and "brocante" style furniture display units, this is truly a visionary store. The furniture alone is over a whole floor with layed out "living areas" - a mix of contemporary classics and vintage pieces, from Eindoven graduates to established craftsmen and well known designers. For example, 1950s school desks, designed by Arne Jacobsen and sourced in Finland, sit alongside an exquisite armchair designed by Paola Navone.

Throughout the three floors covering 1500 sq m, exclusive and ‘one-off’ products are juxtaposed with more mainstream lines, while in the main courtyard visitors can find both a florist and a cafe, and next door is the Used Book Cafe and library - where customers can buy second hand books donated by leading writers, literary critics and celebrities.

This carefully curated collection of interiors, childrenswear, haberdashery and fashion, florist and even a literary cafe is also an exercise in giving something back to society; the owners intend to donate all the profits from the store to charity. Merci to everyone involved is the mantra throughout the store.

And with a packed out opening launch night when the catering was in plentiful supply (just like the chic Parisians in attendance) this old wallpaper factory should be a new regular must-visit on the Paris retail scene.

Obviously I took lots of photos so take a look at one of the best new lifestyle stores around here:

Merci lifestyle store

In with the new, out with the old

2009-03-06T10:10:00.000-08:00

Watching the revolving doors at Paris houses is one of my favourite sports so it was with some pleasure I witnessed an encouraging new dawn at the Rochas label yesterday.

Quiet luxe was the mantra for a newly invigorated Rochas, now in the hands of ex-Halston and Versace designer Marco Zanini, who did not disappoint with a well pitched commercial collection that had exquisite detailing and French sophistication as its focal points.

Zanini told a handful of key editors and top buyers that this collection was not about extravagance. "I didn't need to look in the house archive, I just knew what I wanted to do. I knew that the collection needed to be an understated modern interpretation of luxe - these pieces don't scream luxury they're very quiet with details in the fit and only for the wearer to know about." The devil really is in the detail with delicate chiffon inserts as under-arm seams or ribbon labels sewn into the tiny pockets.

It was chic elegance all the way for classic French slips, silk blouses or double-face wool coats. Tailoring had a 40s feel while intricately beaded evening dresses rounded off a wardrobe that was a complete departure from when Olivier Theyskins was designing for the house before owners P&G closed it in 2006.

With the most expensive pieces coming in at 2800 euros for shaved calfskin throw on coat or a jewel encrusted beaded LBD for 1800, this is a collection fit for a fashion industry in recession - and judging by the turnout of all the major department store fashion directors filing in to take a peek, Zanini's job looks safe for at least the first couple of seasons.

And can I just say: what an exemplary way to showcase a debut collection. The new Rochas benefitted from low, backlit lighting and revolving mirrors to cast a quiet glow over Zanini's work. Were they all thinking what I was thinking? Has someone got it just right at last - just perfectly pitched clothes that women will instantly want to wear. I hope he stays...

Liberty's spring 09 relaunch: a retail renaissance

2009-02-15T15:37:00.000-08:00

I had a good nose around London's favourite and oldest department store yesterday after Liberty unveiled its new look on Valentine's Day.

The revamp features an innovative and more curated layout with a series of themed rooms to showcase different collections, as part of the luxury department store’s “Retail Renaissance” strategy.

The changes to the store structure will be in sympathy with the period quality of the building. The famous wood panelling taken from two former Royal Navy ships remains, of course, but the designers are ensuring that plentiful light is drawn from the glass above the central atrium and uncluttered store design. The store colour palette will be a cool bone and all the fixtures shades of metallic anthracite. The emphasis of the new Liberty will be on the best edited and focused fashion, accessories and homewares collections from around the world.

At the forefront of the changes in-store is creative consultant Yasmin Sewel. The ex-Browns buyer has spearheaded the store’s transformation, focusing on women’s and men’s fashion and accessories, and a layout re-think.

Kicking off she has dedicated a large part of the ground floor accessories area to a new Bazaar gifting department. “We’re introducing a fast-paced Bazaar on the ground floor,” explains Sewell. “It’s a reminder of the store’s origins, when buyers would scour the world to bring back unusual, rare and precious items. Customers will find a wide and eclectic range of items, many of which will be limited edition and always changing.” This room takes its visual inspiration from a traditional bazaar; tables with intricate wooden mosaic inlay display the must-have items for that week. These range from Baptiste Viry grosgrain ribbon buckle cuffs to Nymphenburg porcelain heart shaped key rings, Carlos Falchi patchwork hobo bags, Muhlbauer nautical flat caps and 20s inspired turbans to quilted Indian picnic blankets and guides to every city in the world.

Just next door the jewellery room has changed to become a dedicated scarf showcase - with the most extensive offer in London where established brands like Fendi, Givenchy, Pucci, Liberty of London and Dries Van Noten will sit alongside exclusive lines from Josh Goot, David Szeto and Wolf & Descourtis. We love the head turning array of turban styled mannequin displays and zebra prints on the walls.

On the next two floors covering contemporary and international women's designer collections you can see Sewell's hand having the most effect.

On the first floor in the International Room, Sewell’s focus has been on brand mix. Sophisticated collections from established brands hang next to a younger generation of designers. Christopher Kane sits next to Balmain, Jil Sander and Calvin Klein sit with Josh Goot and Ohne Titel and Antonio Berardi with Alexander McQueen. Sewell says it's this clarity of offer that women are looking for when they shop as well as an element of discovery. "They want to mix ‘killer pieces’ by established and burgeoning designers." Edited collections from all the designers in this room are arranged so that standout, show-stopping pieces are merchandised with a comprehensive selection of items to wear them with. The seated army of mannequins display Sewell's must have seasonal pieces - basking in the central atrium light from above.

Moving through to the central atrium is the Avant Garde room. A black matte floor provides the perfect backdrop to Liberty anchor brands such as Rick Owens, Martin Margiela, Acne and Dries Van Noten who will have their own distinct corners - more immersion into designer spaces like this please!

The Essentials and Contemporary rooms on the second floor have anthracite rails running through them and octagonal mirrored fitting rooms forming
free-standing pods that flood light into the space. Tableaus of mannequins form clusters throughout these rooms breaking down how to wear seasonal trends.

In Essentials Acne provides a chino bar, denim comes from brands such as Current/Elliott and there's a comprehensive mix of t-shirts, cashmere jumpers and trench coats from brands such as Splendid, American Vintage, Aquascutum and APC.

Contemporary sees archetypal Liberty brands such Vivienne Westwood, Vanessa Bruno, Future Classics and Luella sit alongside new editions such as Australian Tina Kalivas and the Cacharel 50th anniversary collection consisting of archive pieces reworked in their original Liberty prints.

And don't miss a comprehensive footwear floor with one of the best designer offerings around - Marni, Alaia, Chloe and Rupert Sanderson next to Miu Miu, Givenchy and Prada.

Liberty's VIP concierge service has also shifted up a gear with a revamp of the private shopping area now called the Style Service suite - members can book in to shop the entire department store's offer in privacy and with expert style advice from the Liberty team of experts.

Check out my Picasa album photo file for a visual walk through here:

Liberty spring 09 relaunch

Paris menswear mixes pared down utility with outdoor appeal at trade shows

2009-01-23T05:55:00.000-08:00

Tranoi Homme and new success story Capsule are leading the charge among independent retailers and contemporary labels as the Paris trade shows with the most to offer discerning menswear customers.

And trends are a plenty, if pared down utility and outdoor pursuits are of interest. Labels to watch included Jehee Sheen, a Korean designer who is ex-Armani and just starting out on his own. See clever ways with tailoring and tuxedo shapes re-worked.

Look out for Nude's all black collection of exquisite knits - long line cardigans and jackets work the Italian knitwear specialist's signature textures and intricate twisted garments into new menswear shapes. This is tactile yet dark utilitarian dressing for a new layering mood.

Coal Black looks set to have a strong season with its modern take on US lumberjack outerwear jackets meets indie rocker kid. 70s shapes combine padded leather bombers and washed denim shirts with skinny tailored pants and great tweeds or shearling jackets in heather and purple or black.

In the same vein is RT Ramdane Touhami that rocker meets hillbilly look has his name stamped all over it!

Over at Capsule - British favourites such as YMC, Oliver Spencer and Tim Soar are pulling in the crowds of US buyers while Swedish label 5th Avenue Shoe Repair is also proving popular. Nom de Guerre and April 77 are top of the denim and casual arena.

Footwear too is strong - at both Tranoi and Capsule. Hottest brands include newcomer Sewn for its high end Italian leather padded boots and serious hiking numbers, Common Projects for more of the same elegant high tops, and Japanese designer Kenjiikeda's fur lined hikers for pure luxury.

Captions from top: Jehee Sheen, Common Projects, Sewn, Coal Black, Nude, Kenjiikeda, RT Ramdane Touhami, Tim Soar, Nom de Guerre, YMC, April 77, Creative Recreation, Oliver Spencer.

Check out my album of product photos for my edited highlights from Tranoi and Capsule AW 09:

Tranoi Homme Paris Jan 2009

Katie Grand's LOVE In at Dover Street Market

2009-02-17T14:28:00.000-08:00

Katie Grand launched her new mag LOVE with a temporary bedroom corner space at London's Dover Street Market on Valentine's Day and just in time for London Fashion Week.

The collaborative fest of hip designers and their latest products made especially for Valentine's Day to celebrate Grand's new LOVE Magazine (apparently it was nearly called Sex, according to her Ponystep interview today), is cosy affair down in the basement with the walls covered in a scrapbook collage of pages from the new glossy c/o friend and fellow collaborator Katie Hillier.

For the Love In, Grand chose a few of her favourite designers: Stella McCartney created limited edition underwear for each day of the week, customised handbags and belts by Chloe, delicate Prada underwear, sharp graphic heart tees by Luella, Burberry house check silk underwear sets featuring LOVE on the behind, smooth Loewe nappa leather cushions featuring ‘I Loewe you’ embossed in gold, happy shiny hair accessories by Katie Hillier, House of Holland Tees featuring Henry Holland’s take on Beth Ditto especially for Valentine’s Day, Giles for Swarovski duvet and pillow case sets, boxed sets of China mugs featuring exclusive graphics by Pam Hogg, 100% silk Gazard dresses by Victoria Beckham, Gap Tees featuring the cover of LOVE’s first issue, and irresistible silk satin embellished shirts and dresses by Dolce & Gabanna.

After DSM sold out of its 30 preview copies over the weekend, LOVE hits stands tomorrow. In the meantime here's the scrapbook version.

Popping up for fashion week NY-LON

2009-02-17T12:10:00.000-08:00

It's fashion week season again so that means some great pop-up retail action in New York and London.

Target launched its about-to-drop Alexander McQueen McQ for Go International collection over the weekend with a frenzied McQ Market preview. Fashionistas in the Hudson Square temporary space grabbed what they could before the rest of the US could get their hands on it. If only Target could come to London...

And in another big retail partnership on 23 February Uniqlo will open a dedicated menswear shop at London's Selfridges on Oxford Street. The new area is housed within the contemporary menswear collections and will showcase an edited range of Uniqlo's top end menswear offer including the new tailoring range alongside the Japanese retailer's cashmere sweaters and colourful hoodies. A brand new Japanese Denim range will also launch in the space - collaboration with Japanese denim manufacturer Kaihara.

London based footwear desginer Tracey Neulsis celebrating 10 years of quirky shoes with a pop-up shop and exhibition called Tracey Neuls Past Present Future in Exhibition Road right next to the tents for fashion week. Open for three weeks only we are promised shoes from past present and future set in Neuls' signature design rich surroundings of shoes displayed on vertiginous towers made from hundreds of reclaimed vintage drawer units.

Mother of Pearl at Start is more of a "guerilla" store than a pop-up according to boutique owner Brix Smith who says the sports-luxe collection is taking over the Shoreditch shop (well mostly) for three weeks. Conceived by Maia Hirst, Mother of Pearl features modern dresses in luxury and technical fabrics that easily transcend from day to eveningwear. Hirst has even installed a motorcross bike to emphasize the sportswear inspired, luxe lifestyle pieces.

Nike 1948 is going from being a pop-up (launched last August in time for the Olympics) in Shoreditch to a permanent space to showcase the sportswear giant's sportswear and fashion collections. Opening (again) on 18 February.

And like other magazine-inspired pop ups that I posted about last Dec, let's not forget Katie Grand's Love in at Dover Street Market - a collaborative fest of hip designers and their latest products for Valentine's Day to celebrate Grand's new LOVE Magazine - in-store for fashion week / as long as stock lasts / whenever Katie wants her bed back - whichever is sooner.

Pop-ups are good for you

2008-12-03T07:39:00.000-08:00

The Americans are much better at gifting than the Brits which would explain the plethora of pop-up stores this Holiday season in New York. And the UK high-street can learn a thing or two from the savvy US retail marketing industry that would prefer to throw a temporary bricks and mortar option at consumers than say a couple of days of frenzied voucher shopping.

It's December and that means any excuse to entice customers out to shop - but why not make it an enjoyable one and dare I say it – give something back to credit-crunch weary consumers? Consumer insight agency The Future Laboratory recently called it "Freesumerism" on their new lifestyle trends site LSN:Global and the practice of utilising third parties to provide useful, free products or services in return for a bit of a branded retail experience is something consumers are open to in their overly marketed lives.

So take note from the WIRED store in New York - rich in gadgets and man-friendly products hosted by the US magazine this Holiday season for the third year in a row; or similarly manly but with a touch more jet-set class is the Monocle pop-up shop from Tyler Brûlé's well considered magazine. Open for six month's on Marylebone High Street in London, the store is intended to showcase a selection of connoisseur type products and limited edition gifts. Brûlé calls it "neighbourhoodsy" and "adding something new to the mix". Meanwhile for another target market all together check out Teen Vogue's Haute Holiday store full of the magazine's pick of advertisers' targeted products in a fluffy teen hang-out kinda space. And who do you think was behind Mo’s Place for Everyman charity event Movember? The moustache trimming specialist Wilkinson Sword, and a branding team on-site who gave tips for free with every trimmer.

The big guns are always at it too: Gap Red has got in on the act with its dedicated Holiday shop and who could fault the fashion week publicity bonanza that was Target's Bodegas.

Some pop-ups are there to show associated brand kudos - trendy denim brand Earnest Sewn uses its backroom as an evolving designer showcase and has just launched a "recession proof pop-up" selling off a selection of this year's roster of designers.

Essentially pop-ups serve as a constantly changing marketing space and can be used as more than just a PR tool – Absolut’s recent vintage boutique House of Masquerade three-day party pop-up was a textbook of example of how to throw third party cash around and create an experience. More marketers and retailers should get together and innovate in today’s competitive retail climate that is crying out for experience – we don’t mind the ads as long as we get something for free.

Paris menswear: new life at old houses

2009-01-26T07:44:00.000-08:00

From fusty and musty to shiny and new this AW09 Paris menswear season is all about who's breathing new life into the old French houses and the Germans and Brits are in on the act too.

This season's Paris men's fashion week kicked off with visiting German "house" label Hugo by Hugo Boss and now designed by Beligan designer Bruno Pieters - who is charged with making Hugo cool again. He looks set to be on course with a dark brooding colour palette of mostly black and white (set against the signature Hugo red runway) mixed with monotone graphic and optical print pieces. Very Germanic and very post-modern for a new take on the oft-referenced Kraftwerk look of the early 80s.

Meanwhile their efforts for womenswear have proved hotter than last season's it bag, so why not try the same for menswear? It's time for a roll-call of some of the most talented designers in Paris to expand their remits this season - as Antonio Marras at Kenzo, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Nicholas Decarnin at Balmain all take over the men's creative direction of their respective houses for AW 09.

At Kenzo, Marras took his troop of young men off to Russia for a journey of military influences through the ages. With the usual visual feast of inspirations as his set Marras projected scenes of industrial unrest onto giant video screens along the runway with cartoonish communist imagery and landmarks such as St Basils along the way. But it was the way Marras expertly enveloped his models in layers of pastel military tones or delicate Japanese embroidery on outerwear producing a lightness of touch for such a heavy subject. Marras is very much at home for Kenzo.

And at Givenchy, Tisci took over from the obscure "design team" initially for last season and looks to be getting into his well known gothic, romantic stride, as with his women's offer. Focusing on fetishistic leatherwear and layering of textures, such as shine over matt, chains next to skin, cobweb knits or sexy lacing and thick wool cabans it looks as if Tisci has also found his comfort zone for the house.

Decarnin at Balmain was a quiet, exclusive (off-schedule) affair for a handful of buyers and press only. Still riding on the success of a widely acclaimed womenswear collection this spring, Decarnin delivered much of the same roughed up outerwear and denim mix for an expensive take on the 80s look last worn by boy band Bros.

Meanwhile Stuart Vevers at Loewe is following two seasons of hit womenswear collections with a new approach to menswear for the Spanish leather house. His is a quiet luxe approach to gentlemanly dressing using what he describes as a "louche" feel inspired by French actor Alain Delon.

While we're on the subject of another guest fashion designer perfectly at home in Paris, another newbie on the schedule is Jean Paul Knott for the house of Cerruti now in his second season. This winter Knott has focused on developing contrasting textures, a house palette of blues and more relaxed silhouettes - easy dressing for older men?

All eyes were on Brit designer Kim Jones for his debut at British menswear establishment Dunhill. He didn't disappoint with his approach to new traditionalism: "It was about taking the DNA of Dunhill and turning it into now - the leather, the white shirt, the Dunhill blazer." Strong points were the flat front tailoring, blazers and graphic panel knits - effortless charisma stuff. And he has years of fun to look forward to unearthing all those art deco vintage trinkets and leatherware items.

And it was about time someone got around to reviving one of the fustiest French houses of them all. Façonnable has been more popular in the US than France for years but not in a good way. New creative chief Eric Wright is an industry veteran having worked for Lagerfeld and Cavalli for years. His unisex vision for the house has luxury and comfort at its core and he has not lost sight of his mainstay WASP customer with plenty of shrug-on blazers, comfy cords and cosy cashmere knits. Describing one of his favourite pieces as a "preppy wool tuxedo" for "when you forget you're wearing something" Wright looks sure to breathe new life in fusty old Faconnable.

Lamentable news is that the rumour mill is cranking up again for Dior Homme designer Kris van Assche who's show for the house was in keeping with his new steady creative vision - all plays on volume and the Belgian's twist on relaxed tailoring options. How long will he last? The odds don't look good, especially when you find out that LVMH boss Bernard Arnault is bankrolling Gareth Pugh's first dedicated menswear show in Paris and you compare his gothic, slimline and edgy signature style with that of the much lauded ex-Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane. Actions speak louder than words on this subject.

It's worth remembering the success stories of past menswear appointments still going strong at Parisian houses. Marc Jacobs can do no wrong for Louis Vuitton - especially with this season's take on "the travelling wardrobe of an African king"; Véronique Nichanian at Hermès who wanted to add some sexiness and energy to the menswear collection she has been overseeing for 20 years; the formidable rise of Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin with this winter's move into relaxed military looks and the exclusive domain that Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga rules.

I like the way The Fashionisto describes this winter's collection: "Unlike Raf Simons, designer Nicolas Ghesquière realizes that a necessity for the upcoming season is wearable pieces that will have a long life."(pictures from Hypebeast via WWD)

Old or new there's a wealth of talent keeping menswear interesting for this winter season.

Captions top to bottom: Hugo by Hugo Boss, Kenzo, Givenchy, Loewe, Cerutti, Dunhill, Façonnable, Dior Homme, Gareth Pugh, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Lanvin, Balenciaga

SLVR for spring

2009-02-04T04:00:00.000-08:00

I've just seen the new adidas SLVR line launching in stores this month - and it's got me thinking about a whole new fitness wardrobe for spring.

Following the German sports brands other successful sub-brand launches such as Y3 and the Stella McCartney collaboration, SLVR sits just underneath in terms of price point and serves a more mass market fashion-led sports lifestyle customer. Think Uniqlo meets Gap with a sports mindset.

The range includes non-branded (very important that, not a trefoil in sight) menswear, womenswear and accessories, and the look is fluid, easy and very everyday wearable. Great colours too.

Chris Barbour, head of global digital marketing for adidas sport style division described it: "Kicking off the first season with the mantra ‘Simply Perfect’, the range shows a timeless and considered design; one that conveys a minimalist character, yet is fresh and progressive."

The first retail store is set to open in New York during Fashion Week, with stores in Paris, Los Angeles and Miami to follow. It's ecommerce only for the UK at www.adidas.com/slvr. Meanwhile I thought I'd share not one but two youthful and energetic pieces of communication: look book and viral film - view here on vimeo.

Shot by renowned photographer Mark Segal and art directed by Pietsch Lim, the SLVR promo film brings the new concept to life through strong black and white visuals and a sound track by Say Hi to Your Mom.

Winterizing

2009-01-28T14:42:00.000-08:00

Taking a good look at the footwear on offer at Bread & butter in Barcelona last week there was a real trend for the perennial hunting, shooting, fishing looks of the season. I loved all the wools and texturized fabrications. Hell stick in some sheepskin as an inner lining and you're all set for winter. My favourite was the Woorich and Converse collaboration - a work boot for the Chuck Taylor that says lumberjack boot. The sales rep described the range as a result of Converse wanting to "winterize" its key products.

Captions top to bottom: DMs, Tretorn, Schmoove, Converse

Dover Street Market: Tachiagari, spring 09

2009-01-18T05:17:00.000-08:00

London's designer emporium Dover Street Market has unveiled new spring offerings in its seasonal Tachiagari - and it's another fine season to visit the Comme des Garçons curated space full of designer treasures and exclusive collaborations.

This season the preview event (last Friday) for press was marked with a limited edition book signing for A Bathing Ape founder Nigo's new tome and a resulting 200 deep queue outside the store. Some were queuing for a glimpse of their hero and some were waiting for the UK's first ever Nowhere boutique to open first thing Saturday. Loved the Bathing Ape PR nails that my blogging buddy snapped on Disney Roller Girl.

Hidden away downstairs in the basement at DSM, Nowhere became an underground phenomenon 15 years ago when the tiny collaborative store from Nigo and Jun Takahashi (Undercover) opened in Harajuku, Tokyo. It was a pivotal moment in the early 90s revival of Harajuku's fashion scene. For 2009, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons has invited Takahashi and Nigo to recreate Nowhere in the basement at DSM. Among the initial selection of Nowhere sweats and tees, will be a revival of Last Orgy - the first collection of items that Jun and Nigo made together. The replicated DSM Nowhere boutique takes over from the previous A Bathing Ape store in Soho and acts as the exclusive London stockist for both A Bathing Ape and Billionaire Boys Club - with its own space just opposite Nowhere.

Still in the basement new additions include the second Stuart Vevers for Loewe collection (all bright pop colours, mixed leathers and serious gold hardware on handbags, jewellery and luggage) where the hot London designer is setting the classic Spanish leather goods company alight - alongside the latest Ferragamo vintage shoe display - all one offs from the archive.

Moving upstairs don't miss the striking giant black octopus in the entrance window from interior design collective Les Trois Garçons. The collaborative polystyrene piece was commissioned by Kawakubo who wanted "something dark and futuristic to go with the spring Comme des Garçons collection", according to creative director Hassan Abdullah, who has also curated an antique furniture area on the second floor - shoes and accessories mingle among the art curios and vintage pieces - it's in place until the end of February.

Moving on up check out the refreshed first floor area housing the new Comme des Garçons Shirt collection. I loved the glass casing and new shaded paneled shirting - not to mention the colour pops of Tricker brogues.

And on second there's a raft of firsts from a refreshed Undercover space to a rich, eclectic corner featuring World Archive's vintage wardrobe of costumes from around the world. A treasure trove of global fineries that will keep collectors there browsing for hours. Also new on this floor is Adam Kimmel, Charles Anastase, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Thom Browne.

Up another floor on third and all hail to Alber Elbaz for Lanvin with the brand new Lanvin area where mannequins are lounging around iChatting to each other about their favourite bags (I like to think they are leaving comments on their favourite blogs). Menswear and womenswear join the new denim capsule range alongside a selection of bridal pieces. Fashion and technology mingle in the epitome of hi-fi style. And if that wasn't enough Stephen Jones pours his hat creations onto a neon pink tree hat stand. Just around the corner find newbies at DSM including Sophia Kokosalaki, Rodarte, David Szeto among a newly dressed corner from Hussein Chalayan and an alcove full of brown tickets hiding the Edition 24 by YSL. Meanwhile Pierre Hardy footwear has a new area showcasing the French designer's futuristic sports collection for men and women.

From sneaker and footwear finds such as Visvim or Ferragamo and music/fashion hybrid labels April 77 or Kitsune, DSM houses the creme of current global fashion brands - and the best range of innovative, collaborative designer spaces. In today's current retail climate it's entertainment within retail environments that keeps loyal customers coming back for more - something Rei Kawakubo knows and executes in new ways every season at DSM.

All Saints has eyes on the US in 09

2009-01-02T10:18:00.000-08:00

East London rock-chick label All Saints is going global with late 2008 having seen a raft of European store openings (Paris, Antwerp, Copenhagen) ahead of a New York flagship due by summer.

The Shoreditch favourite worn by celebrities and fashionista types across the UK (100+ stores) has gone from strength to strength as the goth-meets-glam clubber label becomes better known for its dark Satanic graphics, draped jersey or knitwear pieces, military sharp tailoring and lived in denim mixed with embellished partywear dresses.

For spring 09 we love the skull and cross-bones pirates and sirens graphic t-shirt dresses (sure to be a hit from LA to NY - now shipping on the All Saints website, as well as the optic paint-splash printed cottons or jersey dresses for understated cool. And battered leather jackets and fringed western style suede gilets have a great vintage look. Ruched, asymmetric seamed and raw-edge knitwear has varying thickness - perfect for layering, while marl jerseywear separates comprise a new sleepwear range for lounging (dorm life anyone?). Highlights to snaffle early include washed out draped leather biker jackets and parachute volume hem dresses. Prom-dresses with harnesses for attitude have never looked so good.

Louis Vuitton returns to Sprouse for day-glo reminisce

2009-01-09T02:58:00.000-08:00

Next week sees the launch of Louis Vuitton's latest limited edition collaboration - a reminiscent collection celebrating the work of the late artist and designer Stephen Sprouse - further to the original collaboration in 2001.

After creative chief Marc Jacobs worked with Sprouse earlier this decade the re-juiced collection is described as "a realisation of ideas they perceived when they worked together in 2001," or more specifically it's re-run made modern again for today's global youth tribes with dayglo graffiti and rose prints. Here's a selection of pieces I found in the press showroom - in stores January 15.

These "legacy" motifs are re-interpreted in fluro pink, green, orange and yellow - across shoes, sneakers, t-shirts and leather goods such as the iconic "Speedy" carry all - and have a distinctly clubber-friendly appeal for the affluent customers Louis Vuitton counts from China to Russia to India and Tokyo, not to mention New York where they will surely be a nocternal hit. Especially these shoes - spring 09 will be the season of the Sprouse shoe for Louis Vuitton!

"I tried to use the things in Stephen's vocabulary, and give the collection the shape, silhouette and styling that Stephen would have done when he was at the top of his game. It really is a complete homage, and a complete combination of what is Louis Vuitton, and what is this legendary icon, and then what are the icons and the lasting aesthetics that Stephen left in the fashion world," said Marc Jacobs.

The collection is timed to coincide with the opening of a Sprouse retrospective called Rock on Mars at Deitch Projects' 18 Wooster Street Gallery in New York and the release of The Stephen Sprouse Book by Roger and Mauricio Padilha, which is published by Rizzoli. A limited-edition series of books featuring a special Louis Vuitton cover will also be available in Louis Vuitton stores worldwide.

Pop-up dining projects are pure collaboration in London

2008-11-24T07:05:00.000-08:00

It's pop-up time in London and the run up to Christmas is a feast of restaurant collaborations and blink-and-they'll-be-booked-up dining experience locations. So two new destinations to make sure you visit (before the in-crowd has moved on) are The Double Club in Angel and Flash in Mayfair. One is a bar-club meets relaxed diner "installation" sponsored by the Fondazione Prada; while the other is an art-fashion crowd gallery come restaurant from the Bistroteque crew.

Flash is the latest pop-up restaurant made into a makeshift reality by Pablo Flack, David Waddington and Tom Collins, hidden away in the GSK Contemporary gallery at the back of the Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington Gardens. Flash follows on from Bistroteque's first festive pop-up restaurant Reindeer but instead of snow covered ornaments this year's effort has a "refined" air as Waddington puts it, with a California-influenced menu and an all-star collaboration team: the rising London architecture star David Kohn built the set from art-storage crates, the fashion designer Giles Deacon created a "psychedelic Death Star" chandelier, and the Wedgwood china has been customized by the illustrator Will Broome. Everything will be auctioned on eBay when Flash closes on January 19, with proceeds donated to the Royal Academy.

Meanwhile just opened in an old warehouse behind Angel tube (and in situ for six months only) is The Double Club. Conceived by experimentalist Carsten Höller and bankrolled by the philanthropic art home of Fondazione Prada it's a collaboration space showing the contrasting appeal of both Congalese and Western cultures.

With one side of the room dedicated to a Congalese wooden bar made from timber shipped from Kinshasa and colourful artworks across the walls the juxtaposition of contrasting cultures is clear with the lavish "Two Horses Riders Club" copper design bar in the Western corner. Add in the carved out segregated floor, partnered menus and twinned club areas and you get the idea for mixing it up at The Double Club.

"Instead of doing an art exhibition it's good to do something which disappears with reality - and get confused doing it. It's not an art space, it's a mix of cultures," says Germano Celant from the Fondazione Prada. He continued the idea was to produce something real in an art world where prices are sky rocketing. "It's promoting art but more the dialogue between two cultures and the questions that in itself raises in people's knowledge of these cultures."

Höller describes it as "About having a juxtaposition of two things at once and celebrating one's state of indecisiveness" he thinks it's a human condition "to be double".

It's certainly a double dose of cultural treats if the menu is anything to go by - and that's before you've hit the revolving dancefloor.

CDG for H&M: and then there was none

2008-11-13T04:57:00.000-08:00

Huge anticipation for the fifth annual designer collection at H&M this year from arguably one of the most conceptual and respected designers around Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons. Actually this is the cleverest collaboration yet - H&M's choice to not just throw advertising money at its two Tokyo store launches and Japan debut there this autumn, but create a natural localised promotion that talks to a wide (and new) customer base both there and globally. Japanese marketing website Mekas covered the Ginza opening back in September and called it the news of the month.

“I thought it would be an exciting event to work with H&M in order to sell Comme des Garçons clothes in places where they have never been sold and to appeal to people who may not yet understand Comme des Garçons. Marrying the commercial expertise of H&M with Comme des Garçons creation was a fascinating challenge", says Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons.

“This collection really reflects Kawakubo’s creative spirit and integrity. It is complete with the designer’s trademark, independent style and clever cuts - elaborate tailoring, shirts, knits and a series of playful jersey pieces in dramatic black and midnight blue with accents of white and rose”, says H&M’s Creative Advisor Margareta van den Bosch.

So the preview launch day in Tokyo (a full six days ahead of the rest of the world) produced the expected crowds and usual queues of Japanese fashionistas - but we weren't sure if it was because it was CDG for H&M or because it was H&M and it was new. Or even because it was Hara-juku and that's what they do there every Saturday. Some even queued days in advance to get their hands on the limited edition collection.

That was a clear signal to the rest of the world to prepare to shop the collection early. So after the lookbook went on-line a full month in advance and the preview windows went on display a few days in advance there were no excuses.

But who knew so many London based Japanese CDG fans would be there bright and early to snaffle all the top pieces. They obviously started queuing the night before! Polite but deadly!

However I got most of my wish-list: the spotty cardigan and matching scarf, frilled sleeve blouse, perfect peg-leg length jodpur trousers and the asymmetric hem jacket. I loved the panel-front and frill stitch coat but alas there weren't any to be seen.

As this H&M designer shopping frenzy is always near by birthday it's an annual ritual/ treat but this was my favourite - in some ways because there was only one merch drop so in true Rei style this is very limited edition and also because it paved a seamless and credible path for the retailer into the hallowed Japanese retail market.

We've said it before and we may say it again but how to top this one?