Tranoï Femme autumn/winter 2009/10, Paris
Tranoï Femme is where to find all those chic French labels alongside a range of contemporary designer European finds that organizer Michael Hadida scours the fashion cities of the world hunting out.
Held at the same time as Paris Fashion Week and taking place in three separate venues it’s the leading Paris womenswear trade show alongside other salons such as Rendez-vous, Atmosphere and Premiere Classe.
This season Hadida was trying out a new location – the Carrousel de Louvre (the same venue as many of the catwalk shows) - and it was certainly hard to beat for footfall appeal right next door to all the action of the runways.
“We wanted to try something new this season with the location, it’s a key venue for buyers and we wanted to make it even easier for them to visit the salon and see this season’s pick of European designer labels we’ve found to showcase.”
80s looks and sculptured tailoring were strong trends coming through while zippered detail on dresses and biker style jackets were big order book favourites. A full range of chunky, cable, ruffle and cardigan knits were popular while slinky satins and graphic animal or plaid prints were also moving.
Colours and fabrics were muted and tactile with nude camels, creams and beiges mingling with grey, navy or black. Pops of berry or purple shades kept things lively with hints of burnt orange and metallic along the way.
Brands to watch
Tranoï is a great place to find those French, mostly Sentier based brands that have that insouciant, gamine and oh so chic Parisian look about them. The likes of Heimstone, Love Milla, Madame a Paris, Les Prairies de Paris and Le Mont St Michel alongside newcomer Roseanna were our top picks.
Heimstone’s 80s boyfriend jackets, zip body-con dresses, Aztec print details and snake or suede jackets hit the spot.
Love Milla’s silken blouses, dresses, kaftans and pretty tops have Cruise season cover-ups, or silky feminine options all sewn up.
Madame a Paris went for a real 80s vibe with a fun mix of polka dots, plaid, brocade, lace and tuxedo crop tailoring styles for the chic mademoiselles of Paris.
Les Prairies de Paris has a slightly more grown up appeal – serious outerwear such as suede shrug-on coats or harness fastening capes – alongside charming well-cut wool tailored dresses, silky blouses and sporty blousons.
Accessories were also strong with key footwear brands such as Tattoosh, L’Autre Chose and couturier Behnaz Kanani as well as futuristic biker girl style from Raphael Young all standing out. Post & Co had a way with VM for their belted balloons and hat brand CA4LA was first out of the blocks at the entrance with eye catching fuzzy headgear.