Paris menswear mixes pared down utility with outdoor appeal at trade shows

Tranoi Homme and new success story Capsule are leading the charge among independent retailers and contemporary labels as the Paris trade shows with the most to offer discerning menswear customers.

And trends are a plenty, if pared down utility and outdoor pursuits are of interest. Labels to watch included Jehee Sheen, a Korean designer who is ex-Armani and just starting out on his own. See clever ways with tailoring and tuxedo shapes re-worked.

Look out for Nude's all black collection of exquisite knits - long line cardigans and jackets work the Italian knitwear specialist's signature textures and intricate twisted garments into new menswear shapes. This is tactile yet dark utilitarian dressing for a new layering mood.

Coal Black looks set to have a strong season with its modern take on US lumberjack outerwear jackets meets indie rocker kid. 70s shapes combine padded leather bombers and washed denim shirts with skinny tailored pants and great tweeds or shearling jackets in heather and purple or black.

In the same vein is RT Ramdane Touhami that rocker meets hillbilly look has his name stamped all over it!

Over at Capsule - British favourites such as YMC, Oliver Spencer and Tim Soar are pulling in the crowds of US buyers while Swedish label 5th Avenue Shoe Repair is also proving popular. Nom de Guerre and April 77 are top of the denim and casual arena.

Footwear too is strong - at both Tranoi and Capsule. Hottest brands include newcomer Sewn for its high end Italian leather padded boots and serious hiking numbers, Common Projects for more of the same elegant high tops, and Japanese designer Kenjiikeda's fur lined hikers for pure luxury.

Captions from top: Jehee Sheen, Common Projects, Sewn, Coal Black, Nude, Kenjiikeda, RT Ramdane Touhami, Tim Soar, Nom de Guerre, YMC, April 77, Creative Recreation, Oliver Spencer.

Check out my album of product photos for my edited highlights from Tranoi and Capsule AW 09:

Tranoi Homme Paris Jan 2009