Tranoi Femme SS10 October 2-5 2009, Paris
The girls are back and it's Paris chic all the way at French trade show Tranoi where brands such as Heimstone, Les Prairies de Paris, Madame a Paris, Eurythmic, Mont St Michel and newcomer Roseanne are setting the scene for that gamine street look that mixes bohemian rock chic with effortless Parisian nonchalance.
Always a favourite of mine these are the brands that rock in Paris - it amazes me why they are not more widely available outside of France - they are all completely retailer friendly with wardrobe-ready collections just waiting to be edited down. They are a boutique owner's dream ticket; travel to Paris or St Tropez and see these Madamoiselle Chic labels in action.
Elsewhere at Tranoi previous season’s country showcases have been absorbed into the main show – Scandinavian brands including Bllack Noir, Rodebger, Dagmar all showed in the Bourse location while Japanese brands Vas Blomme, Il by Saori Komatsu and Hiromi Tsuyoshi showed at the new Carrousel de Louvre venue. And Indian designer Namrata Jamipura symbolizes the exquisite workmanship that the country is known for through its sequin eveningwear.
For out and out commercial appeal New York designer Binetti and Australian design duo Sass & Bide were our top picks returning again to the show, while first timer Bolangaro Trevor is a British label on fire right now - with sales through the roof at the show to prove it.
Surf inspiration is a big story for spring/summer 10. From neon sporty hoodies or tank vests to vibrant beach scene prints. Graphic prints are everywhere – swirling tropical leaves, painterly brushtrokes, pixilated florals – to inspire high-octane culture clash combinations.
Colours are suitably summery: pastels are on the runways and in the booths therefore they are the season’s strongest trend - along with neons and clashing brights. Metallics make a perennial appearance with all over burnished gold washes looking like a key update.
Fabrics are textured with crochets, lace, broderie anglaise and mesh knits or lightweight tweeds giving unexpected tactile appeal to seasonal favourites.
Here's a selection of my spring/summer brand picks:
Binetti – New York based designer Diego Binetti likes the Ibiza lifestyle and it shows in his glamorous, resort inspired clothes. This season the designer has focused on a gladiatorial statement of armour-style beading on metallic jerseywear pieces, digital tropical prints and tribal designs. The diffusion line ‘I love Binetti’ is now 75% of the business and this season has a light safari on the beach mood with fun prints and belted cotton shorts, tops, dresses and jumpsuits.
Bllack Noir – This ethically minded Danish fashion brand has a play on textures as key inspirations this season. Zippered leather hooded gilets sit next to satin bombers and feminine silk dresses nipped and tucked under the bust for understated sexy styling.
Bolangaro Trevor – Kate Bolangaro and Stuart Trevor are the British designer duo behind the vintage inspired collection that has quickly become a hit contemporary designer label in London. Vintage flag designs, military tailoring and preppy schoolwear jersey pieces mix with figure hugging draped or feminine dresses for a modern take on vintage “thrifting”.
Dagmar - Arty, chic knitwear items and 40s boudoir styling are key for the new collection dedicated to the Bombasse – a mysterious woman who looks sophisticated but dresses in refined lingerie parts. There’s a new casual mix from denim pieces mixed with graphic prints while voluminous drapes and close fit dresses are further highlights.
Giorgio Brato – The Italian leather brand has worked with new washing techniques on pastel leather jackets and leopard print effect bombers. The younger casual line, Wild Lab Generation features printed jersey track pants and sweat tops or nylon bombers.
Heimstone - Oversized shrug-on jackets have 70s feel with paneled leather and suede designs while the Paris brand’s lightweight dresses and tunics are perfect for underneath. Zip body-con dresses continue to be best sellers and tribal prints round out the chic Parisian collection that has a global fan base.
Hiromi Tsuyoshi - Knitwear is the main focus of the collection, with key pieces created from 14 different yarns and produced by hand. The label’s signature style is fused together fabrications with open-weave knits, multicoloured 14 yarn sweater dresses and preppy jersey striped blazers or double layer bright cardigans important items.
Il by Saori Komatsu – The desert was this season’s inspiration for Japanese designer Komatsu who loves to fuse fabrics together to produce unlikely double combinations. We love the broderie anglais look knit and chiffon weave effect dresses also worn as tunics.
Kaylee Tankus- draping and folding are key for this wardrobe building Italian collection that has officewear and smart utilitarian design at its core.
Les Prairies de Paris - Tuxedo style tailoring is lightweight for summer and brightly coloured suede or self-striped cheesecloth fabrics are product highlights for grown up smart/casual looks for day and evening. Easy footwear completes the look.
MSGN – This season the Italian label has taken influence from the blogosphere and a retrospective meets futuristic take on fashion trends for the season. Think 80s Chanel braided jackets in tweeds, lacey frill dresses and brightly coloured brushstroke strapless prom dresses. Oh and neon too.
Namrata Joshipura – Exquisite Indian craftsmanship for eveningwear with a modern, contemporary feel.
No 44 – The Japanese brand that has vintage military as its style influence takes on a wardrobe building manifesto for spring with knitted tops and knitwear added to the urban workwear offer.
Osklen – Brazilain sportswear label Osklen is having its day with the big surf trend set for spring/summer. We love the jersey broderie anglais effect printed tees, hooded sweats and layered pointelle lacey tunics. Metallics are another highlight for glamorous sporty daywear options.
Rodebger – The Swedish label was showing for the first time and with a dark brooding collection strong on textures such as punched leather or soft corduroy and silky paisley print dresses. With a new 10-piece limited edition range of eveningwear and studded wedge footwear the Scandinavian newcomer was a hit.
Roseanna – Lingerie as outerwear is the design ethos at this French label that is full of whimsy and feminine charm.
Sass & Bide – the Australian design duo are a firm favourite and now show their urban chic collection on the runway in New York. This season’s key looks were gladiator body-con meets 80s raver for voluminous jersey casualwear. The brand’s Black Rats leggings have been instrumental in starting the ‘treggings’ trend and the ruched lurex animal print styles are commercial winners.
Accessories were also strong with key footwear and bag brands such as:
Benhaz Kanani – Couture level craftsmanship puts Kanini’s shoes in another league. This season more sandals and lighterweight summer options feature snakeskin, eel and ostrich leather cuts.
Elsa – Danish footwear and accessories designer Elsa has used washed out tans, creams and pale blue or yellow for her utility inspired collection with hints of neon and transparent paneling that work for both the men’s and women’s collections. Her mix and match uppers and soles for shoes are a hit with retailers.
Jas MB – covered studs across leather holdalls and mini-camera bags as clutches are new for the British designer that sells his bags from the US to Asia.
Peachoo & Krejburg – this Danish designer duo has a new focus on gothic styled jewellery mixed with chains for belts and harness-strap leather footwear.
Stephen Venezia – the Italian shoe designer mixes avant-garde designs with high-end luxury leather techniques and colourful combinations for directional footwear.
Suecomma Bonnie – this Korean brand has been running since 2003 and has 12 stores in its home territory with a growing European interest from retailers. Styles are quite glam with high sexy heels with a focus on embellishment and intricate detailing from studs to crystals to frills and ribbon tie bows. Italian manufacture.
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