Peacock feathers flying at H&M

The latest designer collaboration has hit at H&M and Matthew Williamson's new spring range was flying off the racks on Regent Street last night at the VIP / Vogue exclusive preview shopping evening, where Williamson's signature peacock feathers and bright colours were keeping early bird fashionistas happy.

With a queue stretching right around the block it was elbows sharpened to snaffle the hit items - the peacock print jersey dress and long flowing chiffon maxi dress were both early winners while the khaki crop biker jacket and fucshia or turquoise knit cardigans were also fastest off the racks.

Bestie mate Sienna Miller was floating around upstairs while Pixie Geldof was perusing the rails in earnest to try to find something mixing Williamson's hippie deluxe with her rock chick style!

This collection is one of H&M's biggest orders with "plenty to go around" according to PR people and with deliveries today to 1600 stores worldwide everyone should be able to get their hands on a peacock feather or two.

This week's designer collections activity goes to show the high street is still in love with the now common seasonal injection of a bit of celebrity hype and judging by the queues, consumers are still willing to pay for it. I'm wondering if Zandra Rhodes can pull it off for M&S later on this summer too?

Hulanicki highs at Topshop

60s icon Barbara Hulanicki is the latest designer collaboration collection at Topshop and judging by tonight's launch event, this summer's playful pantsuits, chiffon print scarves and blouses will fly off the racks. Hitting stores on the 28th April, London's fashion hipsters had a week's headstart on the rest of the country with an exclusive private shopping event in Notting Hill's Millers Academy (antiques-laden literary private club).

This type of private shopping event has to be a winner in today's tired seen-it-all-before retail climate. The treasure trove ambiance of the venue and wardrobes full to bursting of the new collection probably helped matters - as did the cocktails and Delicious catering to fuel decision making.

Hulanicki was holding court among her Biba-era friends such as Jo Wood, Jan de Villeneuve and Cilla Black. She told me she'd had lots of fun working with the Topshop team on bringing her colourful sunny clothes to life again. And her favourite outfit is the grey suede crop jacket with matching high waisted shorts: "I can't wait to see how everything sells!" she said.

Chanel's new age bling: talisman jewellery

After seeing Chanel's ready-to-wear jewellery collection today at the London HQ press day, I'm a new convert to the creative genius the fashion world knows as Karl Lagerfeld.

The range of art-deco inspired talisman like necklaces, rings and bracelets in delicate jade green and rose pink enamel have an instant collectable quality that will surely leave fashionistas helpless and wanting for more. The models from the show all ran off with the giant sphere rings and when compared to the colourful yet recession-friendly jersey quilted range of classic bags this season, well I know which I'd choose.

Is it finally true to say that "it jewellery" has taken over from "it bag" as luxury item of choice for today's recession conscious fashionista? Well for this one it is anyway...

Free money!

Diesel has decreed that today is Black Friday and to help with our economic woes the denim giant is spraying London with free money!

Whether you find it hidden in an old wallet that Diesel is leaving lying around the capital's major transport hubs (shades of Margiela?) or just scattered on the pavements, this (illegal) tender is the finder's lucky ticket to up to 100% off merchandise at Diesel stores all over the weekend.

Is Renzo playing Charlie and the Chocolae Factory or is it just a case of money for old rope? Whatever the case this injection of "cash" into the economy is a welcome one!

Mademoiselle chic at Tranoï Femme where biker girl meets quirky sophisticate for key autumn trends

Tranoï Femme autumn/winter 2009/10, Paris


Tranoï Femme is where to find all those chic French labels alongside a range of contemporary designer European finds that organizer Michael Hadida scours the fashion cities of the world hunting out.

Held at the same time as Paris Fashion Week and taking place in three separate venues it’s the leading Paris womenswear trade show alongside other salons such as Rendez-vous, Atmosphere and Premiere Classe.

This season Hadida was trying out a new location – the Carrousel de Louvre (the same venue as many of the catwalk shows) - and it was certainly hard to beat for footfall appeal right next door to all the action of the runways.

“We wanted to try something new this season with the location, it’s a key venue for buyers and we wanted to make it even easier for them to visit the salon and see this season’s pick of European designer labels we’ve found to showcase.”

Trends

80s looks and sculptured tailoring were strong trends coming through while zippered detail on dresses and biker style jackets were big order book favourites. A full range of chunky, cable, ruffle and cardigan knits were popular while slinky satins and graphic animal or plaid prints were also moving.

Colours and fabrics were muted and tactile with nude camels, creams and beiges mingling with grey, navy or black. Pops of berry or purple shades kept things lively with hints of burnt orange and metallic along the way.

Brands to watch








Tranoï is a great place to find those French, mostly Sentier based brands that have that insouciant, gamine and oh so chic Parisian look about them. The likes of Heimstone, Love Milla, Madame a Paris, Les Prairies de Paris and Le Mont St Michel alongside newcomer Roseanna were our top picks.

Heimstone’s 80s boyfriend jackets, zip body-con dresses, Aztec print details and snake or suede jackets hit the spot.

Love Milla’s silken blouses, dresses, kaftans and pretty tops have Cruise season cover-ups, or silky feminine options all sewn up.

Madame a Paris went for a real 80s vibe with a fun mix of polka dots, plaid, brocade, lace and tuxedo crop tailoring styles for the chic mademoiselles of Paris.


Les Prairies de Paris has a slightly more grown up appeal – serious outerwear such as suede shrug-on coats or harness fastening capes – alongside charming well-cut wool tailored dresses, silky blouses and sporty blousons.

Accessories were also strong with key footwear brands such as Tattoosh, L’Autre Chose and couturier Behnaz Kanani as well as futuristic biker girl style from Raphael Young all standing out. Post & Co had a way with VM for their belted balloons and hat brand CA4LA was first out of the blocks at the entrance with eye catching fuzzy headgear.

In with the new, out with the old

Watching the revolving doors at Paris houses is one of my favourite sports so it was with some pleasure I witnessed an encouraging new dawn at the Rochas label yesterday.

Quiet luxe was the mantra for a newly invigorated Rochas, now in the hands of ex-Halston and Versace designer Marco Zanini, who did not disappoint with a well pitched commercial collection that had exquisite detailing and French sophistication as its focal points.

Zanini told a handful of key editors and top buyers that this collection was not about extravagance. "I didn't need to look in the house archive, I just knew what I wanted to do. I knew that the collection needed to be an understated modern interpretation of luxe - these pieces don't scream luxury they're very quiet with details in the fit and only for the wearer to know about." The devil really is in the detail with delicate chiffon inserts as under-arm seams or ribbon labels sewn into the tiny pockets.

It was chic elegance all the way for classic French slips, silk blouses or double-face wool coats. Tailoring had a 40s feel while intricately beaded evening dresses rounded off a wardrobe that was a complete departure from when Olivier Theyskins was designing for the house before owners P&G closed it in 2006.

With the most expensive pieces coming in at 2800 euros for shaved calfskin throw on coat or a jewel encrusted beaded LBD for 1800, this is a collection fit for a fashion industry in recession - and judging by the turnout of all the major department store fashion directors filing in to take a peek, Zanini's job looks safe for at least the first couple of seasons.

And can I just say: what an exemplary way to showcase a debut collection. The new Rochas benefitted from low, backlit lighting and revolving mirrors to cast a quiet glow over Zanini's work. Were they all thinking what I was thinking? Has someone got it just right at last - just perfectly pitched clothes that women will instantly want to wear. I hope he stays...

Thank you for having me

I love how retail just finds me sometimes. Last night wandering back to my hotel after a day of shows and showrooms in Paris, I stumbled across the launch party for exciting new lifestyle store Merci. And after writing about it for a piece on Philanthropic Retail for the LS:Nglobal trends website just last week I knew it was going to be good. But in reality it blew me away.

This vast cavernous home of lifestyle retailing is a lesson in exemplary merchandising techniques, curated by the founders of childrenswear brand Bonpoint, it caters to all your lifestyle whims - with a "thank-you" tone to the contributors who have taken part. From designers such as Stella McCartney, YSL, Paul Smith or Isabel Marant, Prairies de Paris and Barbara Bui to a well curated vintage offer, beautiful childrenswear section and "brocante" style furniture display units, this is truly a visionary store. The furniture alone is over a whole floor with layed out "living areas" - a mix of contemporary classics and vintage pieces, from Eindoven graduates to established craftsmen and well known designers. For example, 1950s school desks, designed by Arne Jacobsen and sourced in Finland, sit alongside an exquisite armchair designed by Paola Navone.

Throughout the three floors covering 1500 sq m, exclusive and ‘one-off’ products are juxtaposed with more mainstream lines, while in the main courtyard visitors can find both a florist and a cafe, and next door is the Used Book Cafe and library - where customers can buy second hand books donated by leading writers, literary critics and celebrities.

This carefully curated collection of interiors, childrenswear, haberdashery and fashion, florist and even a literary cafe is also an exercise in giving something back to society; the owners intend to donate all the profits from the store to charity. Merci to everyone involved is the mantra throughout the store.

And with a packed out opening launch night when the catering was in plentiful supply (just like the chic Parisians in attendance) this old wallpaper factory should be a new regular must-visit on the Paris retail scene.

Obviously I took lots of photos so take a look at one of the best new lifestyle stores around here:

Merci lifestyle store