Set Pieces: Theatrical set design sets the tone for a new season at Dover Street Market

A charred old grand piano and larger than life casino table are two new installations at designer retail emporium Dover Street Market, where set design concepts have superseded retail corners for the store’s seasonal Tachiagari (change over).







A window collaboration between designer Adam Kimmel and artist George Condo grabs attention at the entrance to the store with Condo’s sinister and oversized male puppet characters standing around a casino table whilst showcasing Kimmel’s autumn/winter collection.










And on the third floor the newly refurbished shoe and bag accessories space has been designed by Studio Andy Hillman and features a charred grand piano displaying accessories by Loewe and Sergio Rossi, Fendi, Delvaux, Roberta di Camerino, Judith Leiber among walls covered in dark vintage wooden display cabinets. The effect is dark and moody reflecting the retail design trend for a Rough Luxe (see LS:N Global) atmosphere.

These eye-catching installations point to a new era of set design in retail.

My other highlights for AW10 at DSM include:
- The opening of a new Yves Saint Laurent space designed especially for DSM
- Alber Elbaz's latest VM creation for Lanvin - very lady is the vamp and theatrical
- Phoebe Philo's supremely luxe and minimal accessores space for her Celine accessories
- Hussein Chalayan's perfectly symmetrical hanging wardrobe - I loved his AW10 'Vegas' / on the road collection
- Nicholas Kirkwood's delectable shoe/rock/carving showcase
- Print fusions from Peter Pilotto or Erdem. Love the sophisticated print dress this season.
- Basement full of sneakers for men and women who like an androgynous look. I wish Visvim came in smaller sizes.

Dover Street Market: Tachiagari AW comes early

Autumn/Winter collections seem to arrive earlier and earlier each season and while most designer emporiums let the new deliveries slip quietly into store Dover Street Market has a completely new look each season called Tachiagari - and it's a refreshing way to introduce customers to the new designer offers with exciting corners, VM displays and personality enhancing spaces.





The press preview on Monday did not disappoint, so feast your eyes on my whirlwind tour of the new spaces (floor by floor - and then back again for a few bits I missed!).

First off, loved the colourful floral window display. Complete with heady scent, Andy Hillman has created a mystical garden illusion, entitled Endless Summer, which invites guests into what feels like a greenery tunnel. Andy Hillman is a set designer who regularly works with photographer Tim Walker (former DSM collaborator) forming whimsical and magical worlds.

And more of my personal favourites include the new Comme des Garcons Shirt for women corner (rose pink & frilly whites), the suspended hanging space for Hussein Chalayan, the 'front row of fashion' Lanvin show experience, Anne Valerie Hash's reading corner space, Charles Anastase's 'my own private museum' collection of drawings alongside his grown up chic outfits, the World corner complete with eccentric masks and vintage collectibles, Loewe's sumptuous leather bags, Ferragamo's vintage table laden with 70s era shoes and the hidden away, decadent new shoe "department" (love the axes on the carpet wall) carrying hot labels such as New Gen award winner Michael Lewis, Sergio Rossi, Bruno Frisoni, Mr Hare, Cleo B and T29. Nicholas Kirkwood's new geometric frame display is also nearby, next to the new YSL Edition 24 corner full of timeless classics - and don't miss the expanded Comme des Garcons Homme Deux tailoring desk.







The new Comme des Garçons pop-up brand Black made it's debut here a couple of weeks ago (now on the ground floor for 18 months) along with brand new shop fits for Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons Shirt (for men) with those active looking mannequins and Comme des Garçons mainline - the collection entitled, Wonderland draws its inspiration from creating illusions such as layering of materials and prints on accessories. Check out those chic military surrealist parkas.






Tao's little rail of frills is so cute and so is the Undercover space opposite - it's like a treasure trove at the top of the forbidden tower.

In fact there's a bit of a shoe thing going on too (great news for shoe lovers such as myself) for men and women.












Downstairs the basement has had a bit of a refurb too with a whole new sneaker space - carrying hotties like Volta, F-Troupe, Generic Surplus, Common Projects and new spaces for Engineered Garments, Original Fake, Visvim, Monocle, Supreme and the new own-label from Dover Street Market. Sadly it's the last collection for Number (N)ine down here too.


And finally, loving the new collector's book space from Idea Books - this week celebrating man's first steps on the moon.

Captions and more photos here:

DSM Tachiagari AW 09