Authenticity key at Capsule Paris, brands focus on heritage design values

Capsule spring/summer 2010, Paris
26-28 June 2009

Progressive streetwear trade-show Capsule, hosted its third Paris edition last month, with a discerning offer of mostly menswear and accessories brands. Contemporary, designerwear, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections that majored on authenticity and heritage design values. Many brands told the story of their making with localized, vintage inspirations.

It's one of the best, not to mention earliest indications of the forthcoming season's trends - and boasts an impressive list of international retailers scouting brands that will make a difference. Even US trends website PSFK said it wished it could have attended. (Despite the fact that Capsule travels to NY and Vegas in the next month for repeat shows - I guess they just couldn't wait.) Well I couldn't wait to post my report either! I've highlighted trends and a few of my favourite brands, plus posted my usual album of photos - see end of report for link.






Captions top to bottom: Haversack, Creative Recreation, Camo, April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Organiser Edina Sultanik-Silver said she thought the mix of labels from Europe, Japan and the US was Capsule’s strongest to date and after only three seasons the show has quickly become a must visit for independent boutiques and department stores. She added there has been an influx of Japanese, Asia and US buyers this season paying particular attention to the British contingent due to the weakened pound. “The show is pitched as both progressive and saleable and we feel the market level is coming together with an interesting mix of heritage and new brands, balancing edgy with mainstream.”

Commercial trends & key pieces

Summer outdoor pursuits, classic nautical and authentic workwear pieces appeared as commercial themes. Light summer knits and jersey outerwear were surprising bestsellers among exhibitors. Highlights such as fine gauge cable fisherman knits, matelot stripes, short workwear or equestrian blazers, worn-out look shirting or long-sleeve placket front tops, whimsical floral prints and pleat-front tailored shorts all injected some newness into the men’s streetwear and contemporary arena for spring/summer 10.

Brands to watch

Top picks from visitors at the show included Cole Rood & Haan, Haversack, SNS Herning, Norsea Industries and Our Legacy. US fashion journalist & stylist Cator Sparks said: “I love the original story-telling aesthetic behind brands such as Our Legacy, Gitman Vintage, Cole Rood & Haan or SNS Herning. Fashion brands have to show their authenticity nowadays.”

Online retailer, My Wardrobe creative director Luisa de Paula added that British brands such as Garbstore, JW Anderson, Peter Jensen, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, B-Store and Lyle & Scott were her key show picks.

Apparel:

5th Avenue Shoe Repair – this Swedish contemporary brand has become a hot export from Stockholm Fashion Week, and with womenswear as popular as its menswear offer the label is attracting an increasingly high-end stockist base. Key pieces for spring/summer 10 are drop crotch trousers, asymmetric seams and shorter blazer style jackets. Inside out lining and pocket details ensure parka style coats look fresh while washed out linen shirting and bleached denim add a summer vibe. A whimsical paisley print for shirts and tailored shorts injects some pattern interest.


April 77 – French denim and music brand April 77 is growing in collection size as well as global stockist list. Now separated into premium and core lines the three main themes for SS10 were rock n roll music, 80s denim or Apache Indian. Watch out for the myriad stone-wash denim options (on treggings too), camouflage or lumberjack print patterns and Apache Indian meets mid-Western desert styling touches.

Camo – Italian designer Stefano Ughetti looked to equestrian inspirations for his sportswear inspired collection with Arabian style dressing a clear direction. He learned how to ride horses especially for the designing process (in order to understand the functionality needs of riders) and named each piece after specific breeds. Dropped-crotch trousers and shorts alongside striped front-placket shirting and jersey polo shirts are key and a perennial bestseller for Camo. While the bold colour palette of solid colours for unlined cotton jackets with leather pockets and trimmed fine gauge knit cardigans, simple SB2 soft-structured blazers and simple front pocket tees are all key.

Haversack – Japanese label Haversack is one to watch for its love affair with British and establishment dressing aesthetic. Military and nautical themes appeared on tailored linen and light wool jackets or more casual jersey based safari-esque pieces. Plenty of pockets on outerwear pieces and layering of paisley shirting, chequered knits and gingham jersey jackets had an eccentric appeal. Put it all together and this Japanese collection looks well travelled.

Norsea Industries - The rugged appeal of the ocean was also central to Lancashire based label Norsea Industries with designer Stephen X’s new collection called “The Romance of Nature”. No nonsense brushed cotton twill jackets, chinos, cotton striped knits and whimsical fish or floral illustrated designs adorned jersey tees and plain tabard button down tops. Classic designs from days gone by made modern again for discerning menswear fans who like to keep it simple.

Our Legacy – Jockum Hallin from Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy says that the label’s design ethos was developed with the Swedish outdoors way of life in mind. Everything is kept simple and easy to wear with hunting & fishing style jackets, corduroy giets, soft-handle washed linen shirts, jersey or loosely tailored shorts and light knits all key. Hallin says the idea behind the collection is that the wearer passes on favourite or cherished pieces to future generations.

SNS Herning - The authentic fisherman cable knits in light merino wool and sea-island cotton from Danish brand SNS Herning were one of the highest quality brand offers we’ve ever seen. This young brand is still finding its feet (with a healthy kick start from Dover Street Market in London) makes second-skin knitwear with a heritage dating back to the 1930s.


Accessories:


Creative Recreation – the West Coast sneaker brand that features zip away high-top construction has extended its range to include summer-wear hiking boots and a range of canvas and leather brogue style shoes with asymmetric lacing details and soft rubber soles. The core range of high-tops has been updated for summer with over-painted and white-washed canvas, suede or leather options, texturised weave materials and dip-dyed designs.


Cole Rood & Haan – a new heritage offer from US luxury accessories giant Cole Haan sees handmade tanning and last-making for shoes come into spotlight as the brand embraces the story of its beginning. With press notes stating: “In 1928 Cole, Rood & Haan Co was introduced in Chicago, the epicenter of the Jazz movement. Through his flair for design, Trafton Cole created the company’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship while Eddie Haan elevated the brand to one known for service and style.” 80 years later their spirit is back and parent company Cole Haan can enjoy its history once more. Autumn/winter 09 was the brand’s first outing at retail so spring/summer 10 will follow its limited distribution. Light tan, vegetable dyed leathers, contrast panels of canvas and pale lacing feature in the small collection that has a washed out and lovingly created quality feel.


F-Troupe – British footwear brand F-Troupe offered new madras and ticking stripe designs for its simple desert boot styles. Lightweight primary coloured suede boots carried the label’s signature hiking style lacing and the new white sole design carried across for boat shoes and lace up brogues.

Springcourt – the French sports shoe legend has embraced pattern and print for summer, with madras checks, pixilated graphics and Aztec designs as highlights. Grey marl canvas was a basic contrast to the metallic coloured leathers that had a more rock vibe especially the stars n stripes with gold and silver metallic options for statement footwear.

For captions and more photos:

Capsule SS10 Paris June 09

Paris menswear: new life at old houses

From fusty and musty to shiny and new this AW09 Paris menswear season is all about who's breathing new life into the old French houses and the Germans and Brits are in on the act too.

This season's Paris men's fashion week kicked off with visiting German "house" label Hugo by Hugo Boss and now designed by Beligan designer Bruno Pieters - who is charged with making Hugo cool again. He looks set to be on course with a dark brooding colour palette of mostly black and white (set against the signature Hugo red runway) mixed with monotone graphic and optical print pieces. Very Germanic and very post-modern for a new take on the oft-referenced Kraftwerk look of the early 80s.

Meanwhile their efforts for womenswear have proved hotter than last season's it bag, so why not try the same for menswear? It's time for a roll-call of some of the most talented designers in Paris to expand their remits this season - as Antonio Marras at Kenzo, Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy and Nicholas Decarnin at Balmain all take over the men's creative direction of their respective houses for AW 09.

At Kenzo, Marras took his troop of young men off to Russia for a journey of military influences through the ages. With the usual visual feast of inspirations as his set Marras projected scenes of industrial unrest onto giant video screens along the runway with cartoonish communist imagery and landmarks such as St Basils along the way. But it was the way Marras expertly enveloped his models in layers of pastel military tones or delicate Japanese embroidery on outerwear producing a lightness of touch for such a heavy subject. Marras is very much at home for Kenzo.

And at Givenchy, Tisci took over from the obscure "design team" initially for last season and looks to be getting into his well known gothic, romantic stride, as with his women's offer. Focusing on fetishistic leatherwear and layering of textures, such as shine over matt, chains next to skin, cobweb knits or sexy lacing and thick wool cabans it looks as if Tisci has also found his comfort zone for the house.

Decarnin at Balmain was a quiet, exclusive (off-schedule) affair for a handful of buyers and press only. Still riding on the success of a widely acclaimed womenswear collection this spring, Decarnin delivered much of the same roughed up outerwear and denim mix for an expensive take on the 80s look last worn by boy band Bros.

Meanwhile Stuart Vevers at Loewe is following two seasons of hit womenswear collections with a new approach to menswear for the Spanish leather house. His is a quiet luxe approach to gentlemanly dressing using what he describes as a "louche" feel inspired by French actor Alain Delon.

While we're on the subject of another guest fashion designer perfectly at home in Paris, another newbie on the schedule is Jean Paul Knott for the house of Cerruti now in his second season. This winter Knott has focused on developing contrasting textures, a house palette of blues and more relaxed silhouettes - easy dressing for older men?

All eyes were on Brit designer Kim Jones for his debut at British menswear establishment Dunhill. He didn't disappoint with his approach to new traditionalism: "It was about taking the DNA of Dunhill and turning it into now - the leather, the white shirt, the Dunhill blazer." Strong points were the flat front tailoring, blazers and graphic panel knits - effortless charisma stuff. And he has years of fun to look forward to unearthing all those art deco vintage trinkets and leatherware items.

And it was about time someone got around to reviving one of the fustiest French houses of them all. Façonnable has been more popular in the US than France for years but not in a good way. New creative chief Eric Wright is an industry veteran having worked for Lagerfeld and Cavalli for years. His unisex vision for the house has luxury and comfort at its core and he has not lost sight of his mainstay WASP customer with plenty of shrug-on blazers, comfy cords and cosy cashmere knits. Describing one of his favourite pieces as a "preppy wool tuxedo" for "when you forget you're wearing something" Wright looks sure to breathe new life in fusty old Faconnable.





Lamentable news is that the rumour mill is cranking up again for Dior Homme designer Kris van Assche who's show for the house was in keeping with his new steady creative vision - all plays on volume and the Belgian's twist on relaxed tailoring options. How long will he last? The odds don't look good, especially when you find out that LVMH boss Bernard Arnault is bankrolling Gareth Pugh's first dedicated menswear show in Paris and you compare his gothic, slimline and edgy signature style with that of the much lauded ex-Dior Homme designer Hedi Slimane. Actions speak louder than words on this subject.

It's worth remembering the success stories of past menswear appointments still going strong at Parisian houses. Marc Jacobs can do no wrong for Louis Vuitton - especially with this season's take on "the travelling wardrobe of an African king"; Véronique Nichanian at Hermès who wanted to add some sexiness and energy to the menswear collection she has been overseeing for 20 years; the formidable rise of Lucas Ossendrijver at Lanvin with this winter's move into relaxed military looks and the exclusive domain that Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga rules.

I like the way The Fashionisto describes this winter's collection: "Unlike Raf Simons, designer Nicolas Ghesquière realizes that a necessity for the upcoming season is wearable pieces that will have a long life."(pictures from Hypebeast via WWD)

Old or new there's a wealth of talent keeping menswear interesting for this winter season.

Captions top to bottom: Hugo by Hugo Boss, Kenzo, Givenchy, Loewe, Cerutti, Dunhill, Façonnable, Dior Homme, Gareth Pugh, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Lanvin, Balenciaga