Authenticity key at Capsule Paris, brands focus on heritage design values

Capsule spring/summer 2010, Paris
26-28 June 2009

Progressive streetwear trade-show Capsule, hosted its third Paris edition last month, with a discerning offer of mostly menswear and accessories brands. Contemporary, designerwear, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections that majored on authenticity and heritage design values. Many brands told the story of their making with localized, vintage inspirations.

It's one of the best, not to mention earliest indications of the forthcoming season's trends - and boasts an impressive list of international retailers scouting brands that will make a difference. Even US trends website PSFK said it wished it could have attended. (Despite the fact that Capsule travels to NY and Vegas in the next month for repeat shows - I guess they just couldn't wait.) Well I couldn't wait to post my report either! I've highlighted trends and a few of my favourite brands, plus posted my usual album of photos - see end of report for link.






Captions top to bottom: Haversack, Creative Recreation, Camo, April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Organiser Edina Sultanik-Silver said she thought the mix of labels from Europe, Japan and the US was Capsule’s strongest to date and after only three seasons the show has quickly become a must visit for independent boutiques and department stores. She added there has been an influx of Japanese, Asia and US buyers this season paying particular attention to the British contingent due to the weakened pound. “The show is pitched as both progressive and saleable and we feel the market level is coming together with an interesting mix of heritage and new brands, balancing edgy with mainstream.”

Commercial trends & key pieces

Summer outdoor pursuits, classic nautical and authentic workwear pieces appeared as commercial themes. Light summer knits and jersey outerwear were surprising bestsellers among exhibitors. Highlights such as fine gauge cable fisherman knits, matelot stripes, short workwear or equestrian blazers, worn-out look shirting or long-sleeve placket front tops, whimsical floral prints and pleat-front tailored shorts all injected some newness into the men’s streetwear and contemporary arena for spring/summer 10.

Brands to watch

Top picks from visitors at the show included Cole Rood & Haan, Haversack, SNS Herning, Norsea Industries and Our Legacy. US fashion journalist & stylist Cator Sparks said: “I love the original story-telling aesthetic behind brands such as Our Legacy, Gitman Vintage, Cole Rood & Haan or SNS Herning. Fashion brands have to show their authenticity nowadays.”

Online retailer, My Wardrobe creative director Luisa de Paula added that British brands such as Garbstore, JW Anderson, Peter Jensen, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, B-Store and Lyle & Scott were her key show picks.

Apparel:

5th Avenue Shoe Repair – this Swedish contemporary brand has become a hot export from Stockholm Fashion Week, and with womenswear as popular as its menswear offer the label is attracting an increasingly high-end stockist base. Key pieces for spring/summer 10 are drop crotch trousers, asymmetric seams and shorter blazer style jackets. Inside out lining and pocket details ensure parka style coats look fresh while washed out linen shirting and bleached denim add a summer vibe. A whimsical paisley print for shirts and tailored shorts injects some pattern interest.


April 77 – French denim and music brand April 77 is growing in collection size as well as global stockist list. Now separated into premium and core lines the three main themes for SS10 were rock n roll music, 80s denim or Apache Indian. Watch out for the myriad stone-wash denim options (on treggings too), camouflage or lumberjack print patterns and Apache Indian meets mid-Western desert styling touches.

Camo – Italian designer Stefano Ughetti looked to equestrian inspirations for his sportswear inspired collection with Arabian style dressing a clear direction. He learned how to ride horses especially for the designing process (in order to understand the functionality needs of riders) and named each piece after specific breeds. Dropped-crotch trousers and shorts alongside striped front-placket shirting and jersey polo shirts are key and a perennial bestseller for Camo. While the bold colour palette of solid colours for unlined cotton jackets with leather pockets and trimmed fine gauge knit cardigans, simple SB2 soft-structured blazers and simple front pocket tees are all key.

Haversack – Japanese label Haversack is one to watch for its love affair with British and establishment dressing aesthetic. Military and nautical themes appeared on tailored linen and light wool jackets or more casual jersey based safari-esque pieces. Plenty of pockets on outerwear pieces and layering of paisley shirting, chequered knits and gingham jersey jackets had an eccentric appeal. Put it all together and this Japanese collection looks well travelled.

Norsea Industries - The rugged appeal of the ocean was also central to Lancashire based label Norsea Industries with designer Stephen X’s new collection called “The Romance of Nature”. No nonsense brushed cotton twill jackets, chinos, cotton striped knits and whimsical fish or floral illustrated designs adorned jersey tees and plain tabard button down tops. Classic designs from days gone by made modern again for discerning menswear fans who like to keep it simple.

Our Legacy – Jockum Hallin from Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy says that the label’s design ethos was developed with the Swedish outdoors way of life in mind. Everything is kept simple and easy to wear with hunting & fishing style jackets, corduroy giets, soft-handle washed linen shirts, jersey or loosely tailored shorts and light knits all key. Hallin says the idea behind the collection is that the wearer passes on favourite or cherished pieces to future generations.

SNS Herning - The authentic fisherman cable knits in light merino wool and sea-island cotton from Danish brand SNS Herning were one of the highest quality brand offers we’ve ever seen. This young brand is still finding its feet (with a healthy kick start from Dover Street Market in London) makes second-skin knitwear with a heritage dating back to the 1930s.


Accessories:


Creative Recreation – the West Coast sneaker brand that features zip away high-top construction has extended its range to include summer-wear hiking boots and a range of canvas and leather brogue style shoes with asymmetric lacing details and soft rubber soles. The core range of high-tops has been updated for summer with over-painted and white-washed canvas, suede or leather options, texturised weave materials and dip-dyed designs.


Cole Rood & Haan – a new heritage offer from US luxury accessories giant Cole Haan sees handmade tanning and last-making for shoes come into spotlight as the brand embraces the story of its beginning. With press notes stating: “In 1928 Cole, Rood & Haan Co was introduced in Chicago, the epicenter of the Jazz movement. Through his flair for design, Trafton Cole created the company’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship while Eddie Haan elevated the brand to one known for service and style.” 80 years later their spirit is back and parent company Cole Haan can enjoy its history once more. Autumn/winter 09 was the brand’s first outing at retail so spring/summer 10 will follow its limited distribution. Light tan, vegetable dyed leathers, contrast panels of canvas and pale lacing feature in the small collection that has a washed out and lovingly created quality feel.


F-Troupe – British footwear brand F-Troupe offered new madras and ticking stripe designs for its simple desert boot styles. Lightweight primary coloured suede boots carried the label’s signature hiking style lacing and the new white sole design carried across for boat shoes and lace up brogues.

Springcourt – the French sports shoe legend has embraced pattern and print for summer, with madras checks, pixilated graphics and Aztec designs as highlights. Grey marl canvas was a basic contrast to the metallic coloured leathers that had a more rock vibe especially the stars n stripes with gold and silver metallic options for statement footwear.

For captions and more photos:

Capsule SS10 Paris June 09

Oasis talks to fashionistas for AW09

Oasis previewed all its hottest looks for autumn/winter 09 last week and I can reveal the top trends to watch in-store will be: Rapture for the 80s vibe (full on sequin dresses and stretch lace mixed with studs); Modernist for a wearable take on the geometric, construction styles that are coming through loud and clear (pointy shoulders and angular lines I'm talking about you); Warrior for something a bit more street mixed with glam - liquid satins and fur layering; and Modern Vintage for a slightly softer mood with investment pieces to save up for.







Meanwhile I just loved the signposting throughout the presentation - talking fashion at you and not in a condescending way - let's hope these type of insightful messages make it into stores for clear communication. And this works well for signaling the Oasis sub-brands: new for autumn we have Shirt Tales - a fashion focused range of dresses and blouses made from shirts only. Also new is Drawn To You - a range of illustrations across jersey tees and dresses. 80s New Vintage continues to reinterpret the decade that lives on in fashion (check that bronze tuxedo jacket and some stunning LBD numbers). And not forgetting the Oasis Designer Collective, now in it's second season and working with graduates from The Royal College of Art.

So plenty to choose from and more of the trend messages in-store please!

New Look's it girl bash

New Look's celebratory bash last night was a fashionista fest and filled to the brim with London's young it girls. I just loved Amber Le Bon's nonchalent chic look here. And is she sporting hot new Prism frames - just in-store at Browns? My friend Anna Laub's glasses certainly do find themselves on the finest chiselled features!

Peacock feathers flying at H&M

The latest designer collaboration has hit at H&M and Matthew Williamson's new spring range was flying off the racks on Regent Street last night at the VIP / Vogue exclusive preview shopping evening, where Williamson's signature peacock feathers and bright colours were keeping early bird fashionistas happy.

With a queue stretching right around the block it was elbows sharpened to snaffle the hit items - the peacock print jersey dress and long flowing chiffon maxi dress were both early winners while the khaki crop biker jacket and fucshia or turquoise knit cardigans were also fastest off the racks.

Bestie mate Sienna Miller was floating around upstairs while Pixie Geldof was perusing the rails in earnest to try to find something mixing Williamson's hippie deluxe with her rock chick style!

This collection is one of H&M's biggest orders with "plenty to go around" according to PR people and with deliveries today to 1600 stores worldwide everyone should be able to get their hands on a peacock feather or two.

This week's designer collections activity goes to show the high street is still in love with the now common seasonal injection of a bit of celebrity hype and judging by the queues, consumers are still willing to pay for it. I'm wondering if Zandra Rhodes can pull it off for M&S later on this summer too?

Hulanicki highs at Topshop

60s icon Barbara Hulanicki is the latest designer collaboration collection at Topshop and judging by tonight's launch event, this summer's playful pantsuits, chiffon print scarves and blouses will fly off the racks. Hitting stores on the 28th April, London's fashion hipsters had a week's headstart on the rest of the country with an exclusive private shopping event in Notting Hill's Millers Academy (antiques-laden literary private club).

This type of private shopping event has to be a winner in today's tired seen-it-all-before retail climate. The treasure trove ambiance of the venue and wardrobes full to bursting of the new collection probably helped matters - as did the cocktails and Delicious catering to fuel decision making.

Hulanicki was holding court among her Biba-era friends such as Jo Wood, Jan de Villeneuve and Cilla Black. She told me she'd had lots of fun working with the Topshop team on bringing her colourful sunny clothes to life again. And her favourite outfit is the grey suede crop jacket with matching high waisted shorts: "I can't wait to see how everything sells!" she said.

Chanel's new age bling: talisman jewellery

After seeing Chanel's ready-to-wear jewellery collection today at the London HQ press day, I'm a new convert to the creative genius the fashion world knows as Karl Lagerfeld.

The range of art-deco inspired talisman like necklaces, rings and bracelets in delicate jade green and rose pink enamel have an instant collectable quality that will surely leave fashionistas helpless and wanting for more. The models from the show all ran off with the giant sphere rings and when compared to the colourful yet recession-friendly jersey quilted range of classic bags this season, well I know which I'd choose.

Is it finally true to say that "it jewellery" has taken over from "it bag" as luxury item of choice for today's recession conscious fashionista? Well for this one it is anyway...