Set Pieces: Theatrical set design sets the tone for a new season at Dover Street Market

A charred old grand piano and larger than life casino table are two new installations at designer retail emporium Dover Street Market, where set design concepts have superseded retail corners for the store’s seasonal Tachiagari (change over).







A window collaboration between designer Adam Kimmel and artist George Condo grabs attention at the entrance to the store with Condo’s sinister and oversized male puppet characters standing around a casino table whilst showcasing Kimmel’s autumn/winter collection.










And on the third floor the newly refurbished shoe and bag accessories space has been designed by Studio Andy Hillman and features a charred grand piano displaying accessories by Loewe and Sergio Rossi, Fendi, Delvaux, Roberta di Camerino, Judith Leiber among walls covered in dark vintage wooden display cabinets. The effect is dark and moody reflecting the retail design trend for a Rough Luxe (see LS:N Global) atmosphere.

These eye-catching installations point to a new era of set design in retail.

My other highlights for AW10 at DSM include:
- The opening of a new Yves Saint Laurent space designed especially for DSM
- Alber Elbaz's latest VM creation for Lanvin - very lady is the vamp and theatrical
- Phoebe Philo's supremely luxe and minimal accessores space for her Celine accessories
- Hussein Chalayan's perfectly symmetrical hanging wardrobe - I loved his AW10 'Vegas' / on the road collection
- Nicholas Kirkwood's delectable shoe/rock/carving showcase
- Print fusions from Peter Pilotto or Erdem. Love the sophisticated print dress this season.
- Basement full of sneakers for men and women who like an androgynous look. I wish Visvim came in smaller sizes.

Swedish fashion house: Acne creates London studio store

Swedish fashion label Acne has opened a studio store in a former gallery on London’s Dover Street, and it's curated more like a tall townhouse with departments and artworks on each of the four floors.



The four floors not only display men’s and women’s fashion, but also art works by Helmut Lang, Jeremiah Goodman and Katerina Jebb. When entering, customers pass a piano that will be used for live music at weekends. A roof terrace adds to the feeling of being in someone’s home.



‘The studio will offer more than just clothing, it will be a house of different creativity,’ says creative director Jonny Johansson.








I particularly like the interpretations of Jeremiah's artworks - with wallpaper designs on the walls of the store very much leaping off the page of his book to mingle with the carefully merchandised collections hanging artfully on rails and mannequins.

Popping swaps: Liberty of London hosts a trio of design collaborations through pop-up swap shops

Liberty of London has extended its design collaboration roster to include working with a trio of international retail names this spring – through shared swap-shop pop-ups in-store.



First to kick off and launching during fashion week on Feb 23, the London based retail brand has linked with Milan boutique 10 Corso Como for a mutually beneficial print collaboration realised across a limited edition capsule collection for spring/summer. Under the chic Milanese owner, Carla Sozzani’s direction, artist Kris Ruhs has reworked the iconic Liberty Ianthe print into a contemporary design that adorns shirts, swimsuits, hats, leather accessories, scarves ties or handkerchiefs. The pop-up area in-store is merchandised similarly to the Corso Como flagship and the product will sell in both locations for the rest of the summer.

Meanwhile Liberty has also joined forces with philanthropic Paris lifestyle store Merci for a joint swap-shop – over consecutive weeks and with installations in both capitals happening from early March (4 March in Paris and 9 March in London). The Liberty-Merci pop-ups will sell an exclusive range of limited edition pieces, designed and created by Merci creative director Marie France Cohen. After immersing herself in the Liberty print archives she chose a selection of heritage designs that sum up the essence of Liberty for both the French and UK markets. Think summery floral sundresses for women, cute smock tops and flowery bloomers for childrenswear. Soft furnishings are a Merci strongpoint so there are cushions, specially commissioned sofas and haberdashery items too.



Last but not least is the grand daddy of retail design collaborations, Target. Liberty of London hopes to make inroads into the lucrative US market by partnering with the giant US value retailer – and following a value-nomics led strategy. The limited edition Liberty for Target collection is the US retailer's biggest distribution to date with availability at 1500+ stores. It spans fashion and homewares, picnic items and even garden equipment. The prints are bold and undeniably floral and the mass market priced collection will be on sale at Target stores in the US as well as Liberty in London from April.


This spring’s celebration of flower power is about embracing the democratic notion of design for all. Ed Burstell, Liberty’s buying director says: “The price points for our Target collaboration truly spread the Liberty look to all. Now designers and retailers around the world are recognising that by taking our iconic prints and applying them in a considered way to a garment or an object, they can create future classics, whether it’s a plastic beaker at Target, a standout suitcase at Merci or an exquisite scarf at 10 Corso Como.”


All three collaborations are well thought out brand synergies that benefit both parties. Through the swap-shop pop–up executions in each country, Liberty finds itself working with like-minded fashion and lifestyle brands and reaching a global audience on a localised level.

adidas Star Wars: may the force be with you in Berlin

After seeing the adidas Originals Star Wars collaboration for SS10 back in November at the press day and wishing I was more of a sneaker freak (OMG, the boyfriend was beyond excited and couldn't wait to make a purchase), I was even more excited at the prospect of the Vice Magazine/adidas Originals for Star Wars party in Berlin while Bread & Butter was on.

After a bit of a scrabble at the door of the underground bunker we were in (despite the sub-zero temperatures and snow), surrounded by serious Star Wars fans judging by the costumes in attendance. But this was Berlin and being Germans it was an edgy crowd all the same. Synth rock and vodka cocktails.

Oh and plenty of stormtroopers at the bar. And obviously a few sneakers on display (where are those elusive orange Luke Skywalkers? And the Princess Leahs?) So despite the photo embargoes in place I felt the need to share a few images online (think I'm safe now). Loving the Star Wars corridor of fame. Now that's a way to celebrate a collaboration.











I think London needed this kind of launch event. Anything would have been good. There was talk of a flash mob of Stormtroopers hitting Shibuya in Tokyo and over in New York, Racked just reported on how Snoop Dog kicked things off at the Soho NYC store (The Best Stunt Ever!). So come on London, I'm looking for Leah.