Dover Street Market: Tachiagari AW comes early

Autumn/Winter collections seem to arrive earlier and earlier each season and while most designer emporiums let the new deliveries slip quietly into store Dover Street Market has a completely new look each season called Tachiagari - and it's a refreshing way to introduce customers to the new designer offers with exciting corners, VM displays and personality enhancing spaces.





The press preview on Monday did not disappoint, so feast your eyes on my whirlwind tour of the new spaces (floor by floor - and then back again for a few bits I missed!).

First off, loved the colourful floral window display. Complete with heady scent, Andy Hillman has created a mystical garden illusion, entitled Endless Summer, which invites guests into what feels like a greenery tunnel. Andy Hillman is a set designer who regularly works with photographer Tim Walker (former DSM collaborator) forming whimsical and magical worlds.

And more of my personal favourites include the new Comme des Garcons Shirt for women corner (rose pink & frilly whites), the suspended hanging space for Hussein Chalayan, the 'front row of fashion' Lanvin show experience, Anne Valerie Hash's reading corner space, Charles Anastase's 'my own private museum' collection of drawings alongside his grown up chic outfits, the World corner complete with eccentric masks and vintage collectibles, Loewe's sumptuous leather bags, Ferragamo's vintage table laden with 70s era shoes and the hidden away, decadent new shoe "department" (love the axes on the carpet wall) carrying hot labels such as New Gen award winner Michael Lewis, Sergio Rossi, Bruno Frisoni, Mr Hare, Cleo B and T29. Nicholas Kirkwood's new geometric frame display is also nearby, next to the new YSL Edition 24 corner full of timeless classics - and don't miss the expanded Comme des Garcons Homme Deux tailoring desk.







The new Comme des Garçons pop-up brand Black made it's debut here a couple of weeks ago (now on the ground floor for 18 months) along with brand new shop fits for Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons Shirt (for men) with those active looking mannequins and Comme des Garçons mainline - the collection entitled, Wonderland draws its inspiration from creating illusions such as layering of materials and prints on accessories. Check out those chic military surrealist parkas.






Tao's little rail of frills is so cute and so is the Undercover space opposite - it's like a treasure trove at the top of the forbidden tower.

In fact there's a bit of a shoe thing going on too (great news for shoe lovers such as myself) for men and women.












Downstairs the basement has had a bit of a refurb too with a whole new sneaker space - carrying hotties like Volta, F-Troupe, Generic Surplus, Common Projects and new spaces for Engineered Garments, Original Fake, Visvim, Monocle, Supreme and the new own-label from Dover Street Market. Sadly it's the last collection for Number (N)ine down here too.


And finally, loving the new collector's book space from Idea Books - this week celebrating man's first steps on the moon.

Captions and more photos here:

DSM Tachiagari AW 09

Heritage pursuits key trends at Tranoï Homme where traditional summer activities combine with washed out colours and light fabrics.

Tranoï Homme spring/summer 2010, Paris, 26-29 June 2009

Paris menswear trade-show, Tranoï Homme hosted an international roster of men’s apparel and accessories brands last month, where designer sector formal, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections following heritage pursuits – providing an early indication of what is set to be a big trend for the season ahead.

Traditional summer and hot weather activities such as British tennis or croquet, classic California surfing and African/Asia safaris feature as themes for clothes that men can return to again and again for classic summer climate styles. Washed out fabrics – especially suede, silk or jerseys mixed with over-dyed light colours from sand, dove grey and pale blues through to navy or charcoal.

This season Tranoï organizer Michael Hadida continued to collaborate with a selection of designers who showed their collections to press and buyers via runway shows at Tranoï’s Bourse location. Dries van Noten pulled a big crowd among the thunderstorms, while Damir Doma’s giant installation decorated the exterior of the venue.

Commercial trends & key pieces

Preppy and sporting pursuits jackets looked to be strong – in keeping with the theme of heritage summer activities. Ticking stripes or checks kept jackets formal while safari pockets and light shower-proof coatings provided humidity cover-ups for jungle activities.

Washed out leathers, suede, silks and paper coating were popular fabrications for blouson jackets or longer length parkas or sleeveless gilets.

Jersey linings on soft handle cottons were extra soft to the touch, shirts had a gauzy washed feel with pajama style shorts or double layer shorts over leggings and rolled up trousers lengths as key pant options. Patterned machine knits or open-weave gauzy hand knits provided a contrast to all the jersey.

Natural leather, treated suede or plasticized inserts are highlights for accessories with washed out brights for canvas sneakers.



Brands to watch

Top picks from buyers at the show included Riviera Club, Nigel Cabourn and Social Suicide. Luisa de Paula, creative director at My Wardrobe said: “I loved the washed out, relaxed feel of US surfwear brand Riviera Club, it’s got a vintage heritage feel that’s right for now.”

Apparel:

0205 – This jackets and pants only label from Italy features the same cut (short SB2 jacket, single pleat slim trousers) in a range of checks and stripes. Keeping preppy style simple.

Arne & Carlos – The Danish knitwear duo start with a set of graphic shapes (horses and swallows this season) for their machine knits and them mix up the shapes to produce a range of coordinated and Scandinavian design feel knits. Masculine and modern.

Coal Black – Japanese denim brand Coal Black is half rock n roll and half outdoors/Cherokee Indian. A great mix of biker leathers, sharp indigo denim and 50s tuxedo style suiting.

Giorgio Brato – this Italian leather specialist makes sensual soft skin leather or suede jackets, shirts and pants – all have a washed out, worn in quality. Also on show was the brand’s younger, more contemporary range Wild Lab Generation with special attention paid to repeat print graphics on jersey and nylon sweat tops.





Golden Bunny – watch out for this Italian jacket brand’s summer weight triple washed, triple coated silk blousons – so soft they scrunch up and fall out in a handshake.

Kenzo – a mini preview of the men’s catwalk collection by Antonio Marras was on show at Tranoi Homme – desert safari storm was the look that saw creative director Marras take inspiration from the central African expedition of Pierre de Brazza in 1880 to discover the Congo river.

Nigel Cabourn – British designer Nigel Cabourn took a trip to Burma for his jungle summer collection full of khaki jackets and waterproof outerwear with vintage detailing that sets Cabourn apart from other 90s labels that have since died a death in the casualwear arena.

Philipp Plein – the German designer’s design aesthetic is rock meets couture – this season manifesting itself in skulls and rhinestones. For summer the new polo shirts, and flouro details mix clean tailored lines with rock inspired studs and leathers.

Riviera Club – this Santa Barbara based vintage surfwear brand was a standout collection at the show. Split into three delivery stories, Riviera, Vintage and Safari the nautical, washed out and desert styling came through loud and clear. Highlights were the jersey lined, soft-handle cotton shirting and pajama like shorts, over-the-head cover-ups and bleached-out worn jersey tees.

Social Suicide - British summertime pursuits is this formalwear label’s inspiration, where linen and cotton jackets roll up to unravel a world of passing-the-time vacation options. Flamboyant deck chair stripes and sophisticated piping are key features on soft fitted jackets with big lapels and frayed edges. Printed gingham and polka-dot linings conceal chess and backgammon boards, sudoko, crosswords, tick-tack-toe among a battalion of pockets to hold the holiday novel, wallet, sunglasses and even mesh casing to ensure limited mobile phone reception. These are jackets to prolong the holiday experience - in town, country or ex-pat location.

Venti Cappotti Venti Cappelli – the Italian outerwear specialist has focused on paper-weight coated and over-printed wind-cheaters and parkas for its summer collection. Currency graphics look strong for Oriental influences.

Yohan Serfati – an eccentric French designer, Yohan Serfati specializes in manipulating leathers and transforming them into aesthetic design focused pieces. Jackets and open-weave knits are cut with curve detailing on sleeves, hoods and shoulders while double layer shorts or leggings are new pant options.

Accessories:





A Coba LT – this Japanese accessories brand makes mountaineering pursuits look fresh for summer with lightweight suede options for boots and sandals alongside hiking bags in exotic skins and canvas.

Converse – showcasing the more exclusive Jack Purcell and John Varvatos collections, sportswear giant Converse unveiled tennis and retro sneakers for the Purcell line and more vintage inspired weave designs for the Varvatos collaboration.

Elsa – Antwerp-based accessories designer Els Proost again joined the group showing of the Flanders Fashion Institute at Tranoi Homme and showcased her cut-out raw and over-painted leather shoes and messenger bags. The double layer shoes in pale tan colours mixed with pale blue and flouro looked fresh while her clever inside/outside design detailing brought man bags bang up to date.

Guiliano Fujiwara – the Japanese designer brand based in Italy has a new sportswear direction for Summer 10. Concentrating on the footwear offer, the suede high-top sneakers mix commercial and sportswear appeal with a casual finesse.

Martinica – the Italian belt brand fuses handcraft and design with commercial vintage styling appeal.

See all my photos here:

Tranoi Homme SS10 Paris June 09

Authenticity key at Capsule Paris, brands focus on heritage design values

Capsule spring/summer 2010, Paris
26-28 June 2009

Progressive streetwear trade-show Capsule, hosted its third Paris edition last month, with a discerning offer of mostly menswear and accessories brands. Contemporary, designerwear, casual and sportswear labels showed summer collections that majored on authenticity and heritage design values. Many brands told the story of their making with localized, vintage inspirations.

It's one of the best, not to mention earliest indications of the forthcoming season's trends - and boasts an impressive list of international retailers scouting brands that will make a difference. Even US trends website PSFK said it wished it could have attended. (Despite the fact that Capsule travels to NY and Vegas in the next month for repeat shows - I guess they just couldn't wait.) Well I couldn't wait to post my report either! I've highlighted trends and a few of my favourite brands, plus posted my usual album of photos - see end of report for link.






Captions top to bottom: Haversack, Creative Recreation, Camo, April 77, Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair

Organiser Edina Sultanik-Silver said she thought the mix of labels from Europe, Japan and the US was Capsule’s strongest to date and after only three seasons the show has quickly become a must visit for independent boutiques and department stores. She added there has been an influx of Japanese, Asia and US buyers this season paying particular attention to the British contingent due to the weakened pound. “The show is pitched as both progressive and saleable and we feel the market level is coming together with an interesting mix of heritage and new brands, balancing edgy with mainstream.”

Commercial trends & key pieces

Summer outdoor pursuits, classic nautical and authentic workwear pieces appeared as commercial themes. Light summer knits and jersey outerwear were surprising bestsellers among exhibitors. Highlights such as fine gauge cable fisherman knits, matelot stripes, short workwear or equestrian blazers, worn-out look shirting or long-sleeve placket front tops, whimsical floral prints and pleat-front tailored shorts all injected some newness into the men’s streetwear and contemporary arena for spring/summer 10.

Brands to watch

Top picks from visitors at the show included Cole Rood & Haan, Haversack, SNS Herning, Norsea Industries and Our Legacy. US fashion journalist & stylist Cator Sparks said: “I love the original story-telling aesthetic behind brands such as Our Legacy, Gitman Vintage, Cole Rood & Haan or SNS Herning. Fashion brands have to show their authenticity nowadays.”

Online retailer, My Wardrobe creative director Luisa de Paula added that British brands such as Garbstore, JW Anderson, Peter Jensen, Oliver Spencer, Lou Dalton, B-Store and Lyle & Scott were her key show picks.

Apparel:

5th Avenue Shoe Repair – this Swedish contemporary brand has become a hot export from Stockholm Fashion Week, and with womenswear as popular as its menswear offer the label is attracting an increasingly high-end stockist base. Key pieces for spring/summer 10 are drop crotch trousers, asymmetric seams and shorter blazer style jackets. Inside out lining and pocket details ensure parka style coats look fresh while washed out linen shirting and bleached denim add a summer vibe. A whimsical paisley print for shirts and tailored shorts injects some pattern interest.


April 77 – French denim and music brand April 77 is growing in collection size as well as global stockist list. Now separated into premium and core lines the three main themes for SS10 were rock n roll music, 80s denim or Apache Indian. Watch out for the myriad stone-wash denim options (on treggings too), camouflage or lumberjack print patterns and Apache Indian meets mid-Western desert styling touches.

Camo – Italian designer Stefano Ughetti looked to equestrian inspirations for his sportswear inspired collection with Arabian style dressing a clear direction. He learned how to ride horses especially for the designing process (in order to understand the functionality needs of riders) and named each piece after specific breeds. Dropped-crotch trousers and shorts alongside striped front-placket shirting and jersey polo shirts are key and a perennial bestseller for Camo. While the bold colour palette of solid colours for unlined cotton jackets with leather pockets and trimmed fine gauge knit cardigans, simple SB2 soft-structured blazers and simple front pocket tees are all key.

Haversack – Japanese label Haversack is one to watch for its love affair with British and establishment dressing aesthetic. Military and nautical themes appeared on tailored linen and light wool jackets or more casual jersey based safari-esque pieces. Plenty of pockets on outerwear pieces and layering of paisley shirting, chequered knits and gingham jersey jackets had an eccentric appeal. Put it all together and this Japanese collection looks well travelled.

Norsea Industries - The rugged appeal of the ocean was also central to Lancashire based label Norsea Industries with designer Stephen X’s new collection called “The Romance of Nature”. No nonsense brushed cotton twill jackets, chinos, cotton striped knits and whimsical fish or floral illustrated designs adorned jersey tees and plain tabard button down tops. Classic designs from days gone by made modern again for discerning menswear fans who like to keep it simple.

Our Legacy – Jockum Hallin from Swedish menswear brand Our Legacy says that the label’s design ethos was developed with the Swedish outdoors way of life in mind. Everything is kept simple and easy to wear with hunting & fishing style jackets, corduroy giets, soft-handle washed linen shirts, jersey or loosely tailored shorts and light knits all key. Hallin says the idea behind the collection is that the wearer passes on favourite or cherished pieces to future generations.

SNS Herning - The authentic fisherman cable knits in light merino wool and sea-island cotton from Danish brand SNS Herning were one of the highest quality brand offers we’ve ever seen. This young brand is still finding its feet (with a healthy kick start from Dover Street Market in London) makes second-skin knitwear with a heritage dating back to the 1930s.


Accessories:


Creative Recreation – the West Coast sneaker brand that features zip away high-top construction has extended its range to include summer-wear hiking boots and a range of canvas and leather brogue style shoes with asymmetric lacing details and soft rubber soles. The core range of high-tops has been updated for summer with over-painted and white-washed canvas, suede or leather options, texturised weave materials and dip-dyed designs.


Cole Rood & Haan – a new heritage offer from US luxury accessories giant Cole Haan sees handmade tanning and last-making for shoes come into spotlight as the brand embraces the story of its beginning. With press notes stating: “In 1928 Cole, Rood & Haan Co was introduced in Chicago, the epicenter of the Jazz movement. Through his flair for design, Trafton Cole created the company’s reputation for quality and craftsmanship while Eddie Haan elevated the brand to one known for service and style.” 80 years later their spirit is back and parent company Cole Haan can enjoy its history once more. Autumn/winter 09 was the brand’s first outing at retail so spring/summer 10 will follow its limited distribution. Light tan, vegetable dyed leathers, contrast panels of canvas and pale lacing feature in the small collection that has a washed out and lovingly created quality feel.


F-Troupe – British footwear brand F-Troupe offered new madras and ticking stripe designs for its simple desert boot styles. Lightweight primary coloured suede boots carried the label’s signature hiking style lacing and the new white sole design carried across for boat shoes and lace up brogues.

Springcourt – the French sports shoe legend has embraced pattern and print for summer, with madras checks, pixilated graphics and Aztec designs as highlights. Grey marl canvas was a basic contrast to the metallic coloured leathers that had a more rock vibe especially the stars n stripes with gold and silver metallic options for statement footwear.

For captions and more photos:

Capsule SS10 Paris June 09